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SSHZ does Ethos "Zsweet Inzanity".........again

Ethos states 63-70+ days for these..........i'm thinking 70-74 days is probably correct for most of them. There may be a few, 4 or 5, that should go the full 11 weeks. I'm not sure how the topping will change finishing times, as the colas will be way smaller than a large center cola with no topping.
 
Overdrive......ideally, it's meant for a recycling hydro system, that's why the numbers in it are not high. It lets the plants draw what it needs with each recycling, and is only meant to be changed up every week or so. In the Promix, I think a 50% application every third water is fine. The last week or so, i'll go heavier, like it's meant to be applied.
 
And, I still own a gallon of Botanicare Clearex, which is used at the very end to flush the fertilize out of the medium. It will yellow your plants out really quick, so i use it the last 2-3 days normally. This is the only time i water to runoff.....

This product can also be used during the grow, if you are having a problem and can't figure it out. You can use 2ml per gallon and flush to 40% runoff to flush out your medium. Then let it dry, and start again using a low to medium fertilizer rate. This way, you have a good starting point again and in time, things should improve. It's an isotonic flushing agent (basically citric acid) and it will attach to your salts and flush away with the water. You can see it working as the runoff is usually yellow in color, which usually is the fertilizer salt.
 
SSHZ said:
I use Botanicare Pure Blend Pro fertilizers, which are 99% organic and generally do not build up in mediums like chemical fertilizer like AN’s. So, typically, with the Pro, if and when I flush, it’s generally done later in flowering if at all.

I do not water to runoff......I put just enough in before runoff begins. I don’t like runoffs since it floods the room and increases humidity to really high levels. Some mediums, like rock wool and other, runoff is necessary to reduce salt buildup. And most chemical fertilizers in any medium I would feed to runoff too. But with my nutes and medium, it’s just not necessary and more of a waste of products than anything else.

I also don’t flush very much in the end, maybe just the last 3-5 days. I often use at molasses to those flushes too, but nothing else. Make sure it’s unsulfered. Remember too, I use reverse osmosis water, with a starting point, ppm, of around 30. With that, more calmag is necessary until the last 2 weeks when it should be stop altogether as it inhibits resin production.

I’ve run out of Hydroplex now, so I’m going to do half doses of Overdrive every other watering. I want to build up P/K these next couple of weeks, as Botanicare stuff if not packed with it.

It’s always great to know the exact finishing schedule of your plants, so you can plan when to start and stop things. I generally always go to at least 70 days now, no matter what I’m growing. That seems to be the minimum for most stuff these days. Probably 68 days at the absolute earliest. Remember Soma (an old time breeder) always said, when you think they are ready, give them another week! Words to live by............
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How much runoff should a guy be looking for? I fed today with 6lts and got a litre back in 5 gal pots They were dry but now i know approx how much water is needed to the point of runoff in 5 gal bags Ppm 780 6.3 goin in 1300 runoff ph 5.5 I have trays underneath and its cold here already, the woodstove is burning which helps lots with humidity
 
If you are looking for a normal watering runoff, I would think 10-20% that goes in and then out should be fine........but i don't like the fact that the bottom roots sit in the runoff. Roots need oxygen, not constant water. That's one of the reasons i never used trays.

If you are flushing towards the end of the grow, Botanicare recommends 20-40% runoff. When i have a problem plant and want to flush it out completely, I always used the formula 2x the medium. Another words, if you use a 4 gallon pot, I'd run 8 gallons thru it, not caring how much comes out bottom. Those i would normally do in the bath tub to catch the water.
 
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SSHZ said:
If you are looking for runoff, I would think 10-20% that goes in and then out should be fine........but i don't like the fact that the bottom roots sit in the runoff. Roots need oxygen, not constant water. That's one of the reasons i never used trays.
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I never used trays either until i got the ones with risers. What an absolute game changer man. I now try to get about 5% runoff, i don't measure a darn thing tho. All i know is a little over a gallon goes in and a half or full solo cup of runoff comes out of my 5 gallon bags.

@Speedypete
Ideally you want to aim for 10% runoff in anything salt based imo. If you are running organic dry amendments, then youd want just a few drips of runoff that way you know you've saturated everything and arent washing nutrients and microbes away with runoff.
 
SSHZ said:
If you are looking for a normal watering runoff, I would think 10-20% that goes in and then out should be fine........but i don't like the fact that the bottom roots sit in the runoff. Roots need oxygen, not constant water. That's one of the reasons i never used trays.

If you are flushing towards the end of the grow, Botanicare recommends 20-40% runoff. When i have a problem plant and want to flush it out completely, I always used the formula 2x the medium. Another words, if you use a 4 gallon pot, I'd run 8 gallons thru it, not caring how much comes out bottom. Those i would normally do in the bath tub to catch the water.
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GoodShit97 said:
I never used trays either until i got the ones with risers. What an absolute game changer man. I now try to get about 5% runoff, i don't measure a darn thing tho. All i know is a little over a gallon goes in and a half or full solo cup of runoff comes out of my 5 gallon bags.

@Speedypete
Ideally you want to aim for 10% runoff in anything salt based imo. If you are running organic dry amendments, then youd want just a few drips of runoff that way you know you've saturated everything and arent washing nutrients and microbes away with runoff.
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Thank you both. I have them sitting 2 inches off the trays so they have a sump so to speak. Shop vac makes quick clean up. I thought probably the bit of airflow underneath might help Im still not sure about how often to give straight ph’d water..
 
i would never add water to plants without pH adjustment first. But that depends on your soil and fertilizer, among other things.
 
SSHZ said:
i would never add water to plants without pH adjustment first. But that depends on your soil and fertilizer, among other things.
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Im in promix and never ph my water but it comes out of the tap at like 7.0-7.2 so i figure its close enough to 6.5 that the buffer will take care of it for me.
And i alsl believe the botanicare pure blend drops my ph to 6.0-6.2 but i haven't checked any of that since my meters all broke.
 
The very first thing I always tell new grow people to do is go out and buy a good pH/ppm meter........otherwise it’s like driving a car blind. Some people can get away with it, others can use a fertilizer that automatically adjusts (I think it’s called pH perfect or something like that). But if you want to dial in your grow, it’s a necessary device IMO. But we can agree to disagree.

When I add all my stuff to my reverse osmosis water, I’m anywhere between 5.7 to 6.0...........ph down I use a liquid, ph up is a powder. Not much is needed either way. Ph Down is only needed when I add too much ph up. Lol
 
SSHZ said:
The very first thing I always tell new grow people to do is go out and buy a good pH/ppm meter........otherwise it’s like driving a car blind. Some people can get away with it, others can use a fertilizer that automatically adjusts (I think it’s called pH perfect or something like that). But if you want to dial in your grow, it’s a necessary device IMO. But we can agree to disagree.
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indeed, i was getting away with out for awhile, but trying to dial in DTW or even attempt crop steering?

ya need fuckin Sensors.

all i had was phenol red to test my ph, and then just follow a chart and pick what i "want" my E.C to be +tap

did that for about a year till i ran out of nutes and tried a different brand that fucked with my tap/pH differently than the Jacks.

so i finally got bluelab ph pen and ec meter as well, now i want the probes on a controller, and the truncheon lol.

SSHZ said:
When I add all my stuff to my reverse osmosis water, I’m anywhere between 5.7 to 6.0...........ph down I use a liquid, ph up is a powder. Not much is needed either way. Ph Down is only needed when I add too much ph up. Lol
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and no need to "ph buffer" RO water if its being DTW ? and not a res?

just nutes + ph it ?
 
Water in any type of system should be adjusted to a range that the plants can use. It’s complicated and sometimes beyond me, but it has to do with the roots ability to uptake nutes, ions, positive and negative stuff- @Aquaman is much more learned about this than me. Of course the pH also has to be adjusted to the medium i.e. rock wool and hydro should be in the 5.6-6.0 pH range I believe. Soil pH is a bit higher.

I did remember the word regarding fertilizer that does not need to be pH’d- encapsulated. Look it up if you want more info but I think the process “wraps” the different fertilizer molecules so they don’t bind together, thus allowing the roots to absorb everything. I think when the pH is off, molecules bind together to form larger molecules too large for the roots to absorb. I used to be on top of this many years ago, this is all by my old-mans memory and stuff I haven’t thought about for ages.

I did try the encapsulated fertilizer years back, maybe by Canna or another higher end manufacturer, but I wasn’t impressed and didn’t buy it again when I used it all up.
 
Precipitate is the word when molecules join together to form larger ones. Sometimes in your reservoir you may see a cloud form when you add nutrients- that’s actually not good as things are binding together. You should add thing
one at a time and stir well before adding the next thing so that doesn’t happen.
 
As you can see, things are getting chunky. Still loads of white hairs, not much has receded at this point. They have a long way to go and should get ways bigger than they are right now. Once those hairs start to brown up and the buds start to harden, it will get crazy. 10 weeks harvest is 10/28, 11 weeks is 11/4. To get done before my surgery on 11/13, I'm thinking I'll begin harvest the earlier phenos around 11/1.
 
Very interesting........I just realized this is not the original Zsweet Inzanity but a single pheno of it- Zsweet Inzanity #22 crossed again to their Durban Poison. Which isn’t necessary a bad thing but I’ll have to search out more on the Ethos Durban from their website and look for any additional leanings........
 
Correction, kind of........above i was talking about nutrients and availability. I stated a word, encapsulated when i meant chelated. I think some of you knew and didn't want to correct me, in my own thread. lol I think they mean the same thing actually.........but we'll go with chelated since it's more readily accepted in the pot world.
 
Day 52..........I've cut the light back to 11/13 on/off. I'm just thinking by cutting the light back a bit early will help things later on. Yield isn't as much of any issue this crop as is finishing up in time for my surgery. Nicely chunky for 7 weeks......3 weeks 2 go.

View attachment 71866503635__B44769F3-3F57-4EAA-8DFF-7811D45309EB.MOV
 
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And there's always one plant sitting out of the norm, and doing its own thing......this plant drank 1/2 the water of all the other plants and will be done way earlier than the rest. Plain water for her the rest of the way......

image.jpg
 
Jeff from DragonsFlameGenetics gave me a great deal on his fem “Orange Dream”, so that’s been ordered and I’ll most likely do those next. Thanks again Jeff. Thanks to down-under MadMax too, for the push. I’ll save the Ethos Mandarins for the next grow. All my friends are going to think I’m on an orange craze.

I’m going to try and start these new guys before the surgery but if not, afterwards, when I’m feeling up to it. Let’s get this current crop done and over.
 
Also, Blue Lab sent me a message that their Tri-meter now has a WiFi version, which may be helpful for some of you. The Tri-meter is what I use and I love it. I’ve had mine for years and years, and it’s just so reliable and easy to maintain .

bluelab.com

Bluelab Guardian Monitor Wi-Fi

Always On. Being There Optional. Monitor your reservoir pH, Conductivity and Temperature with alerts on your phone when using the Wi-Fi capable Bluelab Guardian Monitor. Built-in Wi-Fi (with option to disable) High/low pH, temperature and conductivity alarms Non-volatile memory – keep settings...
bluelab.com bluelab.com
 
SSHZ said:
Also, Blue Lab sent me a message that their Tri-meter now has a WiFi version, which may be helpful for some of you. The Tri-meter is what I use and I love it. I’ve had mine for years and years, and it’s just so reliable and easy to maintain .

bluelab.com

Bluelab Guardian Monitor Wi-Fi

Always On. Being There Optional. Monitor your reservoir pH, Conductivity and Temperature with alerts on your phone when using the Wi-Fi capable Bluelab Guardian Monitor. Built-in Wi-Fi (with option to disable) High/low pH, temperature and conductivity alarms Non-volatile memory – keep settings...
bluelab.com bluelab.com
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I really like my guardian The wifi will be a game changer for folks in water
 
Opsec says a wifi connected grow device is a terrible idea, unless the user has the knowledge/capability to isolate it from the internet. is it novel and easy to use? possibly. is it safe or serve as a track record for when you get raided? the latter is 100% without proper precautions.

please, y'all, don't connect anything related to your grow to your wifi.

like the old DARE program. Just say no.
 
tobh said:
Opsec says a wifi connected grow device is a terrible idea, unless the user has the knowledge/capability to isolate it from the internet. is it novel and easy to use? possibly. is it safe or serve as a track record for when you get raided? the latter is 100% without proper precautions.

please, y'all, don't connect anything related to your grow to your wifi.

like the old DARE program. Just say no.
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Kinda goes without saying but for those that are legal be good.
 
tobh said:
Opsec says a wifi connected grow device is a terrible idea, unless the user has the knowledge/capability to isolate it from the internet. is it novel and easy to use? possibly. is it safe or serve as a track record for when you get raided? the latter is 100% without proper precautions.

please, y'all, don't connect anything related to your grow to your wifi.

like the old DARE program. Just say no.
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I bet heaps of guys even have there inkbird and infinity fans on wifi.didnt know bout that .thank fuck I havnt hooked mine up..
thanks Tobh.
 
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