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Stoney's Luv Shack

Observer said:
Why not install RO system?

RO/Filters > micron filters > resevoir (inject o2 with concentrator or bubble significantly) no more bacterial growth.

Uv filter/hypo acid/h2o2/high DO (15-40mg/l), treated, oxygenated clean water ready for use.
Click to expand...
Should be able to under 300, 250 maybe.
 
Here you go with RO info.
This site is has great videos and articles on how to do just about anything with RO.
It is where I got my RO/DI and pump but not the cheapest.
You can buy any normal size set up and use the best cartridges from these guys.
I'll tell you right out you can easily send the waste water out of your basement 20 feet away from the unit up hill no problems.
They are way easier then most think.
You want the pre pump and 150GPD to have the most efficiency.
www.bulkreefsupply.com

How a Reverse Osmosis Deionization (RO/DI) System Works

Learn how your RO/DI filter system works to remove 99.9% of the contaminants from your tap water.
www.bulkreefsupply.com www.bulkreefsupply.com
www.bulkreefsupply.com

7 Stage RO/DI Installation Instructions

By Bulk Reef Supply Bulk Reef Supply Reverse Osmosis Deionization Systems only take a few minutes to have connected and making purified water. All of the plumbing on the RO/DI unit will be complete and all you will need to do is connect the tubing to a suitable source water connection, and direct
www.bulkreefsupply.com www.bulkreefsupply.com
www.bulkreefsupply.com

How To Change Your RO/DI Filters

Learn how to change out your RO/DI System's sediment, carbon block, and DI resin filter cartridges.
www.bulkreefsupply.com www.bulkreefsupply.com
www.bulkreefsupply.com

Installing a Booster Pump on a Reverse Osmosis System - BRStv How-To

Learn how to quickly install a booster pump on your RO/DI system to increase water pressure and improve performance.
www.bulkreefsupply.com www.bulkreefsupply.com
There are many others also.
 
If I wasn't fuckin career-less and homeless I'd be running RO for water base, UV filter and oxygenate up to 40mg/l for aero and dwc atleast, micron filters for any particulates that may clog my nozzles.

To correct, I suppose one would/could run the UV filter after it runs through, on a closed loop system to recycle the water. Redundancy.

Efficiency will increase, waste will decrease, savings increase.

Nutrients go Further.

Dialed.
Optimized.
Efficient.
Sustainable.

An investment.


Any anaerobic bacteria or fungis should have a hard time multiplying

EDITED

I'm drinking and rambling.
 
Last edited:
steamroller said:
Here you go with RO info.
This site is has great videos and articles on how to do just about anything with RO.
It is where I got my RO/DI and pump but not the cheapest.
Click to expand...

Thanks man, thats already more than i knew a few minutes ago.

steamroller said:
You can buy any normal size set up and use the best cartridges from these guys.
Click to expand...

i have to imagine my filters wouldn't clog so much since the water is pretty clean to begin with.

steamroller said:
'll tell you right out you can easily send the waste water out of your basement 20 feet away from the unit up hill no problems.
They are way easier then most think.
You want the pre pump and 150GPD to have the most efficiency.
Click to expand...

i had no idea the pumps were like that... not what i had pictured in my head or the tubbing size.

i mean i can't imagine there is gonna be anything in the waste water that i don't want so i would plan to just send it right back to the rain collector again. my problem wasn't high ppm mine starts out a zero. my problem was bacterial or viral. i'm not sure an RO can filter those things.

Observer said:
If I wasn't fuckin career-less and homeless I'd be running RO for water base, UV filter and oxygenate up to 40mg/l for aero and dwc atleast, micron filters for any particulates that may clog my nozzles.

Any anaerobic bacteria or fungis should have a hard time multiplying
Click to expand...

i'm leaning the UV side right now. i have two extra 36watt UV filters left over from my pond that i'm not using anymore. i know i had algae before and for at least that part i could zap it and maybe anything else i don't want. i could set up a constant loop that would just UV the whole tote of water every ten minutes or something like that.

i think first i really need to get my water tested and see if i can find out what the problem was or still is, i won't know for another few weeks because everything looks great in the beginning until the three week mark. so i won't really know if i still have this issue or not for another month. i'm already taking the risk in seed money so i'm not about to risk anymore money on a problem i may or may not have yet.. time will tell!!!!
 
Stoneyluv said:
Thanks man, thats already more than i knew a few minutes ago.



i have to imagine my filters wouldn't clog so much since the water is pretty clean to begin with.



i had no idea the pumps were like that... not what i had pictured in my head or the tubbing size.

i mean i can't imagine there is gonna be anything in the waste water that i don't want so i would plan to just send it right back to the rain collector again. my problem wasn't high ppm mine starts out a zero. my problem was bacterial or viral. i'm not sure an RO can filter those things.



i'm leaning the UV side right now. i have two extra 36watt UV filters left over from my pond that i'm not using anymore. i know i had algae before and for at least that part i could zap it and maybe anything else i don't want. i could set up a constant loop that would just UV the whole tote of water every ten minutes or something like that.

i think first i really need to get my water tested and see if i can find out what the problem was or still is, i won't know for another few weeks because everything looks great in the beginning until the three week mark. so i won't really know if i still have this issue or not for another month. i'm already taking the risk in seed money so i'm not about to risk anymore money on a problem i may or may not have yet.. time will tell!!!!
Click to expand...
And you already got the UV bulbs, they make inline water UV filters too, could just run one of those with ur rain water
 
Observer said:
No excuses, go RO lol.
Click to expand...
I wish someone would have told me this before

Stoneyluv said:

View attachment 102714

tried out some bags i never used before, only fifty cents a piece... i like em.. passed all my tests. picked up some more silly containers too.. i don't know where these things go all the time.. my house just seems to suck these things up like a vacuum or something!!! they were cheap too and i don't dislike any of the colors so win win...

View attachment 102712

View attachment 102713

View attachment 102715

.

a little pre rootin for my man!!

View attachment 102716
Click to expand...

nice rosin!
Funny, i've only bought bags once, and I got those same ones lol. I like them, but have zero to compare with. good to know they are good from someone who knows!

Sounds like you are on the right track with the water, and that worm could prolly tell us the story, lol
sucks, but always feels great to be able to address a problem you are aware of then shoot in the dark, less fun, but more productive lol
 
I used the green killing machine in my tanks.
It is a reasonably priced stand alone unit.
Pump and all in one.
 
Observer said:
And you already got the UV bulbs, they make inline water UV filters too, could just run one of those with ur rain water
Click to expand...

it looks like for $300-$400 i could have a nice setup that i would never need to second guess or worry about. thats a pretty cheap piece of mind! you guys are really twisting my arm now!!!

ninjadip said:
I wish someone would have told me this before



nice rosin!
Funny, i've only bought bags once, and I got those same ones lol. I like them, but have zero to compare with. good to know they are good from someone who knows!

Sounds like you are on the right track with the water, and that worm could prolly tell us the story, lol
sucks, but always feels great to be able to address a problem you are aware of then shoot in the dark, less fun, but more productive lol
Click to expand...

hahaha the worms side of things!!!

you're right man, it feels great to just move forward and onward.

steamroller said:
I used the green killing machine in my tanks.
It is a reasonably priced stand alone unit.
Pump and all in one.
Click to expand...

thats a lot nicer than what i have, thats a lot better proper size too.. i don't need my large 36watt.. i think Bandit may have used the same one actually. this is my old one, i have this one and a brand new backup still in the box. this thing worlks over my 4000 gallon pond with ease so i don't need something this big, plus these bulbs are pricey compared to a 9w... i was only keeping them because they're the exact same bulb my newer cousin eddies use, i'd rather save these for that and buy a new one for the garden water. i think i need to take the plunge on the setup. maybe i've just been lucky all these years and can't leave it up to luck going forward!

2028.JPG

.
.

my new favorite cleaning tool... i don't know why i never did this before... dust be-gone!!!!

2029.JPG

https://imgur.com/a/R9tw3BD
 
ninjadip said:
I wish someone would have told me this before



nice rosin!
Funny, i've only bought bags once, and I got those same ones lol. I like them, but have zero to compare with. good to know they are good from someone who knows!

Sounds like you are on the right track with the water, and that worm could prolly tell us the story, lol
sucks, but always feels great to be able to address a problem you are aware of then shoot in the dark, less fun, but more productive lol
Click to expand...
You too lol

RO RO RO +high oxygenation, closed loop micron filtration cycling system.
UV filter the return for redundancy

You're roots and water bill will love you.

highly recommend with any hydro system

I can't fucking wait to stop using tap water and 100% control the water chemistry.

Shouldn't have to worry about root diseases every again, and healthier oxygenated roots.
 
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Bandit420 said:
For gardening, $75 can give you 50 gallons/day per year then replace filters each year. Simple plug and play into a garden hose.
But if you want whole house except for toilet yep it gets very spendy at $350 minimum
Click to expand...
Sweet, I might of lowballed a little but Definitely worth for me/imo.

75$/garden hose route with a drum resevoir he has doesn't sad bad.
 
Bandit420 said:
For gardening, $75 can give you 50 gallons/day per year then replace filters each year. Simple plug and play into a garden hose.
But if you want whole house except for toilet yep it gets very spendy at $350 minimum
Click to expand...

i'd need a booster pump as well so i need to factor that cost in along with filter. i also need to find out if the pump would be able to work with gravity pressures under 5psi.

like i said, i'm not saying no to RO, i need to get more info is all. like the things you showed me have the water saving and the smart booster pump clams it reduces 65% of waste.. i need to do some math and see how much volume, time, and money all this is costing me.

i also fully understand this is not just to grow hydro, this would need to be for all my gardening so it's not just another hydro expense.

but it's gonna be more than $75 i'm sure.
 
Stoneyluv said:
i'd need a booster pump as well so i need to factor that cost in along with filter. i also need to find out if the pump would be able to work with gravity pressures under 5psi.

like i said, i'm not saying no to RO, i need to get more info is all. like the things you showed me have the water saving and the smart booster pump clams it reduces 65% of waste.. i need to do some math and see how much volume, time, and money all this is costing me.

i also fully understand this is not just to grow hydro, this would need to be for all my gardening so it's not just another hydro expense.

but it's gonna be more than $75 i'm sure.
Click to expand...

I don't think you need RO to garden since you're already at 0ppm. I just mentioned it for using in a humidifier so the water is purified and wondering if the slime would still occur in RO water since things like mosquitoes don't get into RO until it's polluted.
Like others mentioned about the vinegar doing the same or maybe even lemon juice.

IDK if your grocery store or even like the Lowes has those big water jugs for like office water dispensers? But that's RO water in those jugs so you could get that to test out if RO would help before actually getting into a system.

If you or Observer were to get into RO, a system you would use for gardening and home are two totally different things.
For Observer, I assume he would be going off city tap from a garden hose or kitchen/bathroom sink so a basic 3 stage would be more than adequate. If there's other shit in the water the 3 cant get out, usually chloramine or ions, then other stages of filter would be needed.
By and large though, 3 is fine for gardening and organics like making teas and the $65-$75 systems from Aquatic Life fits that.
Then yeah for you a pump like the 1/10HP from HF and an electric float valve would easily double that and then some.
I have a piggyback float valve for that type of a system so if you ever need lemme know. It'll save anywhere from $20-$100 being where those things price out at
 
Stoneyluv said:
i would need a booster pump. and need to be careful where i mounted it because i don't have a good drain downstairs, it's just a french drain and can't handle that kind of volume.
Click to expand...
I think Steam mentioned, it comes out of the waste line with decent pressure and flow. It could send it wherever you needed it to.

Stoneyluv said:
what i would really like to look into is if it's possible to run my rain water through an R/O filter?
Click to expand...
Absolutely, but you guys got that in the works.

I quoted all these so by george I'm gonna use 'em whether or not the questions got answered already.

Stoneyluv said:
i'm just not fond of all the water i wastes. just against my ethics is all and it the real deal breaker ATM and not the cost.
Click to expand...
Can you save it? @Bandit420, what's the waste consist of? Could he collect it and use it elsewhere? I need to look that up cuz now I'm curious.

Stoneyluv said:
looking for nice A to B run. no drama!
Click to expand...
This is it man.. Just keep it between the ditches and drive her home. You got this.
 
Waste water has what the source water had in it but certain things have been removed (first 2 stages have physical and carbon filters) but things not collected prior to the RO membrane are actually increased in concentration

Example of sodium. Input is 50 ppm, RO output is 0 ppm but waste is now 100ppm.

Things that can be removed by carbon are in fact removed and not sent back to the waste.

Most bacteria and viruses are filtered by the membrane. Those get washed back into the waste as well.

I can see a scenario where it makes sense to run the waste back to the rain barrel. If you have sodium in your source water this would not work well because your input water would constantly increase in sodium levels eventually to a harmful level. You would have to drain the source periodically. But with rain water there should not be sodium or heavy metals or other nasty stuff that would build up over time and cause issues.
 
GrumpAzz said:
I think Steam mentioned, it comes out of the waste line with decent pressure and flow. It could send it wherever you needed it to.


Absolutely, but you guys got that in the works.

I quoted all these so by george I'm gonna use 'em whether or not the questions got answered already.


Can you save it? @Bandit420, what's the waste consist of? Could he collect it and use it elsewhere? I need to look that up cuz now I'm curious.


This is it man.. Just keep it between the ditches and drive her home. You got this.
Click to expand...

When I flip my system to collect RO, the waste line runs out to irrigate trees during the drought. Trees love it probably because the nitrates are concentrated. It's not toxic but could be brackish depending on the source water. In theory I really don't waste a single drop but when I run RO, only 1/2 the water gets used in my garden and that waste goes back into the Earth.

Rain barrel RO systems are quite common here. My neighbor is off grid with solar and rain and their system is whole house RO off three 1000g rain water tanks. So even though he collects 3000 gallons of rain, only 1500 are harvested and last him thru the year and the waste goes into his garden.
But for growing pot?
Just need two or more 55g barrels for a grow the size of yours or Stoney's. The bigger the rain collector the better but the usable collection only needs to be around 50 gallons.
One barrel collects rain. A pump, usually inline 1/10th HP minimum, moves water from the rain collector thru the filter and then into the collection barrel to be collected and used.
Where you and I get away with using a float valve shut off at the top of our collection tank to prevent overflow, a rain barrel system would put a piggyback cord float valve on a tether in the bottom of the rain barrel. It's placement would be set to the same height from the bottom of the barrel as the height which you would want it to stop filling in the collection barrel. You would do that so power is cut to the pump and does not burn up pumping a dry barrel.
 
Bandit420 said:
I don't think you need RO to garden since you're already at 0ppm. I just mentioned it for using in a humidifier so the water is purified and wondering if the slime would still occur in RO water since things like mosquitoes don't get into RO until it's polluted.
Like others mentioned about the vinegar doing the same or maybe even lemon juice.

IDK if your grocery store or even like the Lowes has those big water jugs for like office water dispensers? But that's RO water in those jugs so you could get that to test out if RO would help before actually getting into a system.

If you or Observer were to get into RO, a system you would use for gardening and home are two totally different things.
For Observer, I assume he would be going off city tap from a garden hose or kitchen/bathroom sink so a basic 3 stage would be more than adequate. If there's other shit in the water the 3 cant get out, usually chloramine or ions, then other stages of filter would be needed.
By and large though, 3 is fine for gardening and organics like making teas and the $65-$75 systems from Aquatic Life fits that.
Then yeah for you a pump like the 1/10HP from HF and an electric float valve would easily double that and then some.
I have a piggyback float valve for that type of a system so if you ever need lemme know. It'll save anywhere from $20-$100 being where those things price out at
Click to expand...

ahhh i'm sorry i misunderstood ya... i got ya now. makes me think though, this adds more puzzle pieces to it.. i used that water in my other humidifier for years and never had any of that, the old one i would have to take it apart to fill it so i see the guts every time and always clean. it's only been this recent water causing it in this humidifier i bet.

i use one of these under my kitchen sink for drinking water and coffee makers and stuff..
001.JPG

it works great with my tap water and nothing scales from it. i also have the same one downstairs plumbed to my ice maker.. i could easily tap a tee in that line and run a valve next to my humidifier and just use that water for it next winter. i'll see how all this goes first.

GrumpAzz said:
I think Steam mentioned, it comes out of the waste line with decent pressure and flow. It could send it wherever you needed it to.


Absolutely, but you guys got that in the works.

I quoted all these so by george I'm gonna use 'em whether or not the questions got answered already.


Can you save it? @Bandit420, what's the waste consist of? Could he collect it and use it elsewhere? I need to look that up cuz now I'm curious.


This is it man.. Just keep it between the ditches and drive her home. You got this.
Click to expand...

i've been trying to keep it between the mayo and the mustard for three grows now!!! one of these just has to stick!!! ( i hope)

moe.red said:
Waste water has what the source water had in it but certain things have been removed (first 2 stages have physical and carbon filters) but things not collected prior to the RO membrane are actually increased in concentration

Example of sodium. Input is 50 ppm, RO output is 0 ppm but waste is now 100ppm.

Things that can be removed by carbon are in fact removed and not sent back to the waste.

Most bacteria and viruses are filtered by the membrane. Those get washed back into the waste as well.

I can see a scenario where it makes sense to run the waste back to the rain barrel. If you have sodium in your source water this would not work well because your input water would constantly increase in sodium levels eventually to a harmful level. You would have to drain the source periodically. But with rain water there should not be sodium or heavy metals or other nasty stuff that would build up over time and cause issues.
Click to expand...

yea, i can't do that!! i would just be asking for problems down the road. the waste would have to be wasted and just the way it is.

so i assume if the bacteria and virus' are small enough they pass through the RO membrane? where a UV would kill 99.9%? this is probably the same equal efficiency in removing bacteria and virus'

i have to assume thats what i had, one of those. i've ruled out russet mites from the two hour inspection i did over the weekend.

i mean i guess this test right here answers all that, right? with the peroxide it takes bacteria and virus' out the equation, correct?

if i just hold the h2o2 levels at like ten for the first month i'll know if the problem is gone.. i think i'd just like to know that it's possible to grow right now and if this problems continue i can 100% rule out water? if the problem goes away then i'll be down to try some other way out to clean the water.

this is how i'm thinking in my head, dos that all sound accurate from your screen?

Bandit420 said:
When I flip my system to collect RO, the waste line runs out to irrigate trees during the drought. Trees love it probably because the nitrates are concentrated. It's not toxic but could be brackish depending on the source water. In theory I really don't waste a single drop but when I run RO, only 1/2 the water gets used in my garden and that waste goes back into the Earth.

Rain barrel RO systems are quite common here. My neighbor is off grid with solar and rain and their system is whole house RO off three 1000g rain water tanks. So even though he collects 3000 gallons of rain, only 1500 are harvested and last him thru the year and the waste goes into his garden.
But for growing pot?
Just need two or more 55g barrels for a grow the size of yours or Stoney's. The bigger the rain collector the better but the usable collection only needs to be around 50 gallons.
One barrel collects rain. A pump, usually inline 1/10th HP minimum, moves water from the rain collector thru the filter and then into the collection barrel to be collected and used.
Where you and I get away with using a float valve shut off at the top of our collection tank to prevent overflow, a rain barrel system would put a piggyback cord float valve on a tether in the bottom of the rain barrel. It's placement would be set to the same height from the bottom of the barrel as the height which you would want it to stop filling in the collection barrel. You would do that so power is cut to the pump and does not burn up pumping a dry barrel.
Click to expand...

wait up so you're saying i can run an RO filter from a submersible pump? the big ones have enough pressure? i have a few of them here.

Bandit420 said:
I finally figured it out 🙃

Puffco Connect

Puffco Connect gives you unparalleled control over your Peak Pro experience. Get deeper insights with new advanced metrics, create custom heat profiles, and design your mood lights
www.puffco.app www.puffco.app
Click to expand...

huh?? how were you controlling it all this time? saw there was a new firmware update a week or so ago,, added some feature in the lighting but i haven't figured out what it does yet, too lazy to look it up,, haha

but i thought you always had the app and thats how you used it even until you learned you can just double click the power button? i'm confused.

how are liking your new austin glass?
 
Stoneyluv said:
ahhh i'm sorry i misunderstood ya... i got ya now. makes me think though, this adds more puzzle pieces to it.. i used that water in my other humidifier for years and never had any of that, the old one i would have to take it apart to fill it so i see the guts every time and always clean. it's only been this recent water causing it in this humidifier i bet.

i use one of these under my kitchen sink for drinking water and coffee makers and stuff..
View attachment 105046

it works great with my tap water and nothing scales from it. i also have the same one downstairs plumbed to my ice maker.. i could easily tap a tee in that line and run a valve next to my humidifier and just use that water for it next winter. i'll see how all this goes first.



i've been trying to keep it between the mayo and the mustard for three grows now!!! one of these just has to stick!!! ( i hope)



yea, i can't do that!! i would just be asking for problems down the road. the waste would have to be wasted and just the way it is.

so i assume if the bacteria and virus' are small enough they pass through the RO membrane? where a UV would kill 99.9%? this is probably the same equal efficiency in removing bacteria and virus'

i have to assume thats what i had, one of those. i've ruled out russet mites from the two hour inspection i did over the weekend.

i mean i guess this test right here answers all that, right? with the peroxide it takes bacteria and virus' out the equation, correct?

if i just hold the h2o2 levels at like ten for the first month i'll know if the problem is gone.. i think i'd just like to know that it's possible to grow right now and if this problems continue i can 100% rule out water? if the problem goes away then i'll be down to try some other way out to clean the water.

this is how i'm thinking in my head, dos that all sound accurate from your screen?



wait up so you're saying i can run an RO filter from a submersible pump? the big ones have enough pressure? i have a few of them here.



huh?? how were you controlling it all this time? saw there was a new firmware update a week or so ago,, added some feature in the lighting but i haven't figured out what it does yet, too lazy to look it up,, haha

but i thought you always had the app and thats how you used it even until you learned you can just double click the power button? i'm confused.

how are liking your new austin glass?
Click to expand...

Well that was supposed to be a link to the Race Day light scheme I created but I guess I have'nt6 figured it out yet?
IDK man...me and apps don't get along too well a lot of the time.

To get RO from a submersible would probably take one of those big pumps for removing water from a flooded basement in a hurry.
Something like this with the built in float valve

Most common I see are non submersible inline transfer pumps like these at HF

With these you would need a float valve with an electrical switch in your collection tank so when it's topped off it does not over flow and will turn off the pump.
How it's arranged would depend on size of the tanks but I'm thinking that if I understand your rig correctly I would probably go with the basement submersible but also use a redundant float switch in the collection tank to turn the pump off when you have enough water.
Other than that, any pump will work and even gravity could work if the water supply was elevated high enough with small diameter tubing.
Speaking of tubing, these filters all use 1/4" tubing, kinda like bowden tubes for water, which will help increase the water pressure in the system.

The main thing is a PSI of 40-90 must be achieved to get the needed pressure at the RO membrane. Really you could gravity filter thru sediment and carbon then booster pump into the RO chamber.
It's not exactly cookie cutter I guess is what I'm trying to convey here. Once you get 40PSI and can shut down flow automatically you're good to go and can configure it any way that fits your needs
 
Yeah man.. it's all easy peasy considering the scope of some of your other projects.

My only thoughts after Bandit's points, I don't know if I'd go with that large of a submersible. I'm just thinking of how long it might be running to get 50-100 gallons of RO and envision it heating up the water. Maybe that's not an issue, though. My resevoir sits until I run out of top-off water...

Either way, I'd got with a transfer pump and a pressure switch. Something like this...
www.reverseosmosis.com

Pump Switch 1/4" Quick Connect

Tank Pressure shut-off switch PWS W/Wire harness features, Pump Switch 1/4" Quick Connect is used to control the on/off of the Aquatec booster pump 6800 series and 8800 series. Application is installed on a reverse osmosis water system. Instructions are included in the packaging. This...
www.reverseosmosis.com www.reverseosmosis.com
Float valve in the resevoir will let this little thing shut the pump off when it's full.
 
Stoneyluv said:
so i assume if the bacteria and virus' are small enough they pass through the RO membrane? where a UV would kill 99.9%? this is probably the same equal efficiency in removing bacteria and virus'

i have to assume thats what i had, one of those. i've ruled out russet mites from the two hour inspection i did over the weekend.

i mean i guess this test right here answers all that, right? with the peroxide it takes bacteria and virus' out the equation, correct?

if i just hold the h2o2 levels at like ten for the first month i'll know if the problem is gone.. i think i'd just like to know that it's possible to grow right now and if this problems continue i can 100% rule out water? if the problem goes away then i'll be down to try some other way out to clean the water.

this is how i'm thinking in my head, dos that all sound accurate from your screen?
Click to expand...
Bacteria and viruses are mostly removed by the RO membrane. Only the very smallest can get thru.

Peroxide takes water borne pathogens out of the mix. Will not have any impact on stuff getting passed around on trimmers and such. For example hop latent viroid will not be touched by what you do with water. But your uv and ozone will hopefully zap any of that stuff
 
GrumpAzz said:
Yeah man.. it's all easy peasy considering the scope of some of your other projects.

My only thoughts after Bandit's points, I don't know if I'd go with that large of a submersible. I'm just thinking of how long it might be running to get 50-100 gallons of RO and envision it heating up the water. Maybe that's not an issue, though. My resevoir sits until I run out of top-off water...

Either way, I'd got with a transfer pump and a pressure switch. Something like this...
www.reverseosmosis.com

Pump Switch 1/4" Quick Connect

Tank Pressure shut-off switch PWS W/Wire harness features, Pump Switch 1/4" Quick Connect is used to control the on/off of the Aquatec booster pump 6800 series and 8800 series. Application is installed on a reverse osmosis water system. Instructions are included in the packaging. This...
www.reverseosmosis.com www.reverseosmosis.com
Float valve in the resevoir will let this little thing shut the pump off when it's full.
Click to expand...

I'd agree simply because the inline allows a ton more options in the overall system install.
The inline allows it to be in a position very close to the filter then the filter can be almost anywhere.
But with the submersible, that filter will need to be as close to the pump as can be and that usually mean mounting the filter to the rain barrel where it will be exposed to elements unless a housing is built for it..

Another thing to consider Stoney, is the waste line.
An RO system will have 2 lines coming off it. One is filtered you collect and the other is waste.
Most common, the waste goes to a drain.
But if your waste water is not brackish then it can be used so where ever your filter would be, you could run the waste line outside to refill your pond or water trees, garden, etc. If it's contaminated with a bio nasty, fill a tank with it and treat the tank with h2o2 then use it in the landscape
 
Bandit420 said:
Well that was supposed to be a link to the Race Day light scheme I created but I guess I have'nt6 figured it out yet?
IDK man...me and apps don't get along too well a lot of the time.
Click to expand...

ahhh yeah i want that!!!!! i got your back man, this is how ya do it.. first logon to your app and open the mood lights, then do this...

https://imgur.com/a/rCNlZ9V

.

i looked into that new feature... dude it changes the tempo of the mood light according to how we inhale!!!!! C'MON!!!!!

020.JPG

you need the AV firmware to use it...

022.JPG

Bandit420 said:
To get RO from a submersible would probably take one of those big pumps for removing water from a flooded basement in a hurry.
Something like this with the built in float valve
https://www.harborfreight.com/plumb...-pump-with-vertical-float-3400-gph-57718.html
Click to expand...

i have a couple of those big ass pumps, i have one connected to a two inch hose for my pond.. "it's a get the water out quick" emergency pump.

Bandit420 said:
Most common I see are non submersible inline transfer pumps like these at HF
https://www.harborfreight.com/plumbing/pumps/110-hp-transfer-pump-320-gph-63317.html
Click to expand...

i think this kind would work much better for my setup. in case i never showed this.. btw, i put a piece of my pond filtering on the rain collector versus the carbon mat, this is 8 ply with 5 filtration levels and two of them are smaller than the carbon mat so i put a piece of that on there today...

002.JPG

but i get my water from the bottom of the collector, through a 25 foot drinking hose (not vinyl) to the window of my basement..

003.JPG012.JPG

i stick the hose in the hole of the barrel and turn the valve on.. this is how i fill the barrel.

010.JPG009.JPG

my hydro setup and mixing barrel is just six foot from this barrel... the white lid in the bottom right of this photo is my hydro mixing barrel.

017.JPG

and thats my water setup... i get 1 psi for every two foot of elevation.

i think it would be better if i left the outdoor collector alone and just treated the water that comes inside. i could put an inline pump on that hose that comes in and mount the pump to the wall along with an RO filter.

i think this might be better than using a submersible.

Bandit420 said:
With these you would need a float valve with an electrical switch in your collection tank so when it's topped off it does not over flow and will turn off the pump.
How it's arranged would depend on size of the tanks but I'm thinking that if I understand your rig correctly I would probably go with the basement submersible but also use a redundant float switch in the collection tank to turn the pump off when you have enough water.
Other than that, any pump will work and even gravity could work if the water supply was elevated high enough with small diameter tubing.
Speaking of tubing, these filters all use 1/4" tubing, kinda like bowden tubes for water, which will help increase the water pressure in the system.

The main thing is a PSI of 40-90 must be achieved to get the needed pressure at the RO membrane. Really you could gravity filter thru sediment and carbon then booster pump into the RO chamber.
It's not exactly cookie cutter I guess is what I'm trying to convey here. Once you get 40PSI and can shut down flow automatically you're good to go and can configure it any way that fits your needs
Click to expand...

i can handle all the controls and power, i'm just not sure of the hardware needed. i'll have to look for a pump.

i have one right now that i could try.. it even has a built in pressure off switch. it's designed to be a shower pump for an RV.

018.JPG

it's right at the bare minimum but it would be a way i could try an RO filter before buying a new pump.

GrumpAzz said:
Yeah man.. it's all easy peasy considering the scope of some of your other projects.

My only thoughts after Bandit's points, I don't know if I'd go with that large of a submersible. I'm just thinking of how long it might be running to get 50-100 gallons of RO and envision it heating up the water. Maybe that's not an issue, though. My resevoir sits until I run out of top-off water...

Either way, I'd got with a transfer pump and a pressure switch. Something like this...
www.reverseosmosis.com

Pump Switch 1/4" Quick Connect

Tank Pressure shut-off switch PWS W/Wire harness features, Pump Switch 1/4" Quick Connect is used to control the on/off of the Aquatec booster pump 6800 series and 8800 series. Application is installed on a reverse osmosis water system. Instructions are included in the packaging. This...
www.reverseosmosis.com www.reverseosmosis.com
Float valve in the resevoir will let this little thing shut the pump off when it's full.
Click to expand...

yeah i agree, an inline would probably last longer too..

moe.red said:
Bacteria and viruses are mostly removed by the RO membrane. Only the very smallest can get thru.

Peroxide takes water borne pathogens out of the mix. Will not have any impact on stuff getting passed around on trimmers and such. For example hop latent viroid will not be touched by what you do with water. But your uv and ozone will hopefully zap any of that stuff
Click to expand...

i've been sticking to protocol Moe, new gloves each time and i wear my mr. wizard lab coat!! not sure if i mentioned this but i busted out my old sanitizer that i had from mushroom stuff and i have been putting all my tools and beakers in it each time i use one i put it back in there and blast it!!

004.JPG005.JPG
007.JPG

GrumpAzz said:
Hot lady what now?!
Click to expand...

hop latent viroid.... she's a real bitch that one!!!!!!!!!!!!! haha

Bandit420 said:
I'd agree simply because the inline allows a ton more options in the overall system install.
The inline allows it to be in a position very close to the filter then the filter can be almost anywhere.
But with the submersible, that filter will need to be as close to the pump as can be and that usually mean mounting the filter to the rain barrel where it will be exposed to elements unless a housing is built for it..
Click to expand...

thats a good point, keeping the filter close to the pump. i could mount a board to the wall and mount everything right next to each other.

Bandit420 said:
Another thing to consider Stoney, is the waste line.
An RO system will have 2 lines coming off it. One is filtered you collect and the other is waste.
Most common, the waste goes to a drain.
But if your waste water is not brackish then it can be used so where ever your filter would be, you could run the waste line outside to refill your pond or water trees, garden, etc. If it's contaminated with a bio nasty, fill a tank with it and treat the tank with h2o2 then use it in the landscap
Click to expand...

yes, we've been discussing the waste... thats what kinda started all this detail talk.. i'll figure something out. i already have a second ran collector behind my garage and use that one for the pond. it's more than i ever use for it. i have a third smaller one on the other end of the garage for the chickens... i'm just a rain collecting fool man!!!!! hahaha

.
.

so maybe if i could use that pump i had now just to try it out i could get started for under $100. i already own float valves and some tubbing..
 
GrumpAzz said:
Easy peasy. Mount your rain barrels 80 feet in the air.. done.
Click to expand...

ian't gonna lie.. there was a time or two i thought about building a water tower!!!

.
.

a little slackin on a couple but so far we're lookin good!!!

no berry widows yet and one shine is upside down. if nothing happens on the berry widows i may start a backup.. i'll decide tomorrow night. i'll probably help the shell off of that one purple lobster.. all the others are aces!!!

008.JPG
 
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