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i believe you have fancy equipment to measure your DLI? adjust your light hieght according to your DLI. for seedlings keep it around 15-25 DLI and that should work it out to be around 18"-24" above the seedlings.
what is the diode difference in number?I have said fancy equipment
This is why I said 1-3-6 is pretty much like having the light turned off
View attachment 67312
And this was taken at 12" above target just so I could get a reading out of it. At 24" it was zeros across the board. I used two SS550 to replicate his 1100.
You're right he needs a DLI of 15-20 at this stage and it's only 0.7
PPFD should be up around 300-400 and it's only at 15.5
Is yours the 500 or the same 1000?
I have to disagree bro its not the sameThe SS1100 is two SS500s built into one light. If I link two SS550s to each other I pretty much have an 1100. Or when I run all 3 it's then a 1650 but I can widen them out for more coverage and lowered height
I'm at 48" and it's as high as I can go. I know... headroom. I'm way overpowered but I bought this light with future expansion in mind. I'll be able to keep the veg height pretty close to 48 but the stretch is gonna get me.So @GrumpAzz what height are you running?
So 4:5:9 is as low as I can go and still keep their ratio. I'll set it there while we sort this out.keep the ratios very close to what they recommend. This is soo important I can’t stress it enough
@GrumpAzz how high is your light? Look at the recommendations here. And it also says higher if you have reflective walls.
All of these factors need to be looked at. Also 2-550 is not the same as 1-1100. It may sound like it but its not.
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I have to disagree bro its not the same
Thats exactly what i was saying the 1100 NEEDS to be higher.This is old info that has not been updated since 2016 and it was made for the gen 1 light. Recommended spectrums were actually based off comparisons to HID. Gen 2 lights are beyond that with upgraded diodes and crisper whites that don't look like HPS anymore but more like CMH.
We ran tests back in 2016 comparing output of two 550s mounted to each other vs a 1100. The 1100 and paired combo needed to be much higher than a single 550, that a no brainer. And the paired combo was just as powerful as the 1100 matching up like they were sisters.
However a middle ground was found in that the 1110 model was built too compacted and needed a much larger gap between the two panels so it didn't need to be hung so high.
That's where the conclusion was made that two 550s were actually better because power could be reduced and the lights lowered to still cover a 3x5 footprint without bleaching or stress
Of anything g2 diodes are more efficient and put out more light per watt and therefore would need to be higherThis is old info that has not been updated since 2016 and it was made for the gen 1 light. Recommended spectrums were actually based off comparisons to HID. Gen 2 lights are beyond that with upgraded diodes and crisper whites that don't look like HPS anymore but more like CMH.
We ran tests back in 2016 comparing output of two 550s mounted to each other vs a 1100. The 1100 and paired combo needed to be much higher than a single 550, that a no brainer. And the paired combo was just as powerful as the 1100 matching up like they were sisters.
However a middle ground was found in that the 1110 model was built too compacted and needed a much larger gap between the two panels so it didn't need to be hung so high.
That's where the conclusion was made that two 550s were actually better because power could be reduced and the lights lowered to still cover a 3x5 footprint without bleaching or stress
Also i absolutely agree 2 lights of equal wattage provides more even coverage. I have been saying that for 10years since back to the first LED boardsThis is old info that has not been updated since 2016 and it was made for the gen 1 light. Recommended spectrums were actually based off comparisons to HID. Gen 2 lights are beyond that with upgraded diodes and crisper whites that don't look like HPS anymore but more like CMH.
We ran tests back in 2016 comparing output of two 550s mounted to each other vs a 1100. The 1100 and paired combo needed to be much higher than a single 550, that a no brainer. And the paired combo was just as powerful as the 1100 matching up like they were sisters.
However a middle ground was found in that the 1110 model was built too compacted and needed a much larger gap between the two panels so it didn't need to be hung so high.
That's where the conclusion was made that two 550s were actually better because power could be reduced and the lights lowered to still cover a 3x5 footprint without bleaching or stress
Also this is off their website today and was last updated june 2019. This is not the 2016 info you are referring to.This is old info that has not been updated since 2016 and it was made for the gen 1 light. Recommended spectrums were actually based off comparisons to HID. Gen 2 lights are beyond that with upgraded diodes and crisper whites that don't look like HPS anymore but more like CMH.
We ran tests back in 2016 comparing output of two 550s mounted to each other vs a 1100. The 1100 and paired combo needed to be much higher than a single 550, that a no brainer. And the paired combo was just as powerful as the 1100 matching up like they were sisters.
However a middle ground was found in that the 1110 model was built too compacted and needed a much larger gap between the two panels so it didn't need to be hung so high.
That's where the conclusion was made that two 550s were actually better because power could be reduced and the lights lowered to still cover a 3x5 footprint without bleaching or stress
Thats exactly what i was saying the 1100 NEEDS to be higher.
Im not sure what you are saying as outdated or disputing about what i said.
The hanging height is?
Of anything g2 diodes are more efficient and put out more light per watt and therefore would need to be higher
1. I did not recommend a spectral ratio infact i suggested sticking to the manufacturer recommendations but lower because he didn’t have the height requirement and slightly more blue.
2. There is no comparison to intensity when you have 2-550 spread out vs 1100 i stand by this and you also said this after.
3. The efficiency increase means inequality it needs to be higher. Reflective walls ABSOLUTELY reflect light this is an UNEQUIVOCAL FACT. If you want to debate it further i can point you to countless studies on the matter.
4.The claims of max light and lower distance. Sure you can if you have a dialed in room with co2 and genetics that are from areas of higher elevation. Gentics plays a large role in that and so plant health. YOU CANNOT JUST MAKE BLANKET STATEMENTS LIKE THAT.
5. You want to talk about spectrum im extremely well versed and understand exactly what im saying. There is no nuances with these lights or any other tunable light for that matter. ITS NOT COMPLICATED WHEN YOU UNDERSTAND IT.
6. I completely understand DLI and will state again for the record NUMBERS MEAN SHIT. They are a ballpart of where to start. THEY DO NOT DEFINE LIMITING AMOUNT ETC. THE PLANTS DO.
7. You cannot compare your grow room verses his grow room VARIABLES change. Every single parameter affects how much light a plant can handle. Blind comparison is absurd.
again your getting caught up in numbers.
Leaf temps of 80 ARE NOT OK without co2.
You are too caught up on number im not saying soil handles more AT ALL.
There are always more than one reason a plant does something.
You again cannot compare you grow to his. These plants are not even the same size in the pic you posted and a week makes a lot of difference.
Every single variable makes a difference in the amount they can handle.
Im not disputing what you are seeing in your grow or your parameters being fine for your plants…. But that doesn’t mean that his can accommodate those numbers and many of his variables are different.
Eg his leaf temp is 80 im betting your were 74-75 and thats absolutely huge. The fact his leaf temp is 80 and room temp is 80 is absolutely concerning. There is not enough leaf cooling happening from transpiration. This could be for many reason but likely root mass, wind, light, water uptake and water temp vs your soil temp.
His plants are lanky because of genetics and spectrum not intensity. Its been proven a long tome now that you need to reduce light intensity soooo drastically for this to happen because of intensity its almost never seen. Thats an old outdated assumption people still pass along as bro science. Its genetic and spectrumThe comparison is his plants and mine are both at 12 days old which is why I used that pic to make the comparison.
I looked at his data and compared it to mine as well and found they only differ by 1 degree and RH differs by less than 1%. VPD differs by .26 .
At this point his should be a day or two past seedling stage but they're growing very slow from what I'm used to seeing.
Even at the start when still in Root Riots before they began to fall over they're stretching out for light. Then they either get top heavy and fall over or as you say, start to hide from the light.
IME the lack of light is causing the slowed photosynthesis. Maybe the CLW recs you want him to go with would help boost that which I'm sure would be much better than his light being for all purposes turned off, but you're also saying his low output is too much light. That's the biggest point of confusion I'm reading here.
Personally I like to see my sprouts at about half that height with broader biomass in the baby leaves then when they pass seedling stage they have a shortish and firm stalk that will support a heavier and wider headset of leaves.
I'll also say that the only time I do see seedlings fall over is when they're on the perimeter stretching toward the center and they fall over. My fix is to move them to center position under the light and move the plants in the center to the perimeter then reshuffle every 2-3 days. I've never once felt like my plants were hiding from light but more so wanting a lot more than what they were getting. And not once in moving perimeter plant to center position made them weaker and stay fell over. Pretty much the opposite happens and they get back on pace with the rest of the herd.
Agree. Im not specifically saying what light intensity to run as it varies based on height and he is not at the height they recommend and therefore all i can say is by looking at the plants its too much. I cannot say how much they can handle though.well Grump, i'm not sure you're any further or better than what you were yesterday. there is a lot of info from two good growers and they both seem to agree on everything you have going on in your grow except for light intensity on young seedlings.
Aqua is saying less light than 10-15-30 and Bandit is saying more light than 10-15-30
it's no secret Aqua believes leaf temps are very important. and it's no secret Bandit shows how to grow in heat that is said not to be possible.
your last round leaned a bit too right? different light... your first round didn't lean at all? and your seeing some lean now and some not. it almost wants me to look at things other than the light.
but to me it sounds like you're at a split in the path for help. one path says less light and the other path says more light... i say pick one and run.. if it fails start again and pick the other path... if that path fails too then it's time to get out the machete and carve your own path (meaning it might be something other than light power)
good thing you got extra seeds.
thats my 2¢ on your situation.
Thats shows very similar symptoms of light stress.I'll add that when mine do fall over it's not in the direction of the light but which ever fan caught the head in a breeze and made them fall over.
So some fall towards the east, west, north, and south just depending on which fan blew them over.
Stretching for light is one thing that makes them weak enough to fall over.
The other reason is watering when they don't have enough roots to anchor the sprout down. The flood of water will make them fall over.
The remedy I use for both is prop it back up with a support hook immediately and they don't fall over again.
Along with a reshuffling from center point there's also some spinning around involved to get them orientated on the light if they fell away from the light. But yeah they'll lean toward the light and stretch but the fall can be in any direction due to a breeze or watering.
Here's an example from several grows ago where the stretched out sprout was too top heavy and fell over. Very similar to what Grump has going. I can't remember if it was due to perimeter stretching or a watering loosening up the anchor or maybe both but the support corrected it and it did not bend back over after being propped up. It continued vertical and even orientated itself to catch more light.
When I see one has fallen over I use these supports as soon as it's seen and don't let them lay on their side very long or let them try and grow out of it
View attachment 67358
If Grumps sprouts were supported this way to correct the fall I don't believe they would turn downward or fall over again but would likely stretch vertical. If continuing to stretch with a thin stem and a searching for light posture I'd say give them more light. If they sorta wilt, look beat up and worn out, and go towards a pale side of green I'd agree it was too much light.
It's just really hard for me to believe these lights on that low of power setting will cause light stress. It's actually kinda hard to light stress with these lights unless you get nuts with max power and have it like 5 inches above target. They really don't deliver the extreme photon rain until they're up around 90-90-90
If this was due to genetics I can only offer that two of the plants in my pic above have the same Gellato in them as Grumps.
If they were mutants I'd say yeah genetics as some of mine came up mutant but mine were not stretchy. Actually more runty sprouts and squatty plant at harvest.
Like that 3-4 cotyledon sprout, three nodes off one leaf, only one leaf off a node like that one above, or die after germination is common from that breeder across most of his fem cuts.