reliable economic hydro setup for a noob

Stoneyluv

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Is there such a thing?

I'm asking the hydro gurus here, i want to know if it is even possible to put together a two plant setup in a few days?

I am good with my hands and can build almost anything. Would anyone be able to help me construct a two plant setup to run two AUTO plants in and help me choose nutes and help me get me started?

i have some stuff from a very crude DWC i tried many years ago.

i own a good air pump, and have various buckets/tubs and plumbing parts laying around, i have net pots and meters, i have really great water, i have some nutes but am open to trying something else to be honest.

i'm really only looking to dip my toe and try this out.. if i really like it and want to move forward i would invest in a quality setup. for right now i'm looking for cheap and reliable. anyone think that could be done and willing to help me?
 
I'd say, being in your basement, leaks aren't THAT serious. But with Hydro, you could dump a lot of water on the floor in a hurry.

thanks for the warning man.. i know this going into it. i once flooded my 55gal drum and dumped the rest of the 275 gallons on the floor. and about every five years or so my hot water heater rots out and dumps a lot before i see it... i've learned the hard way and everything in my basement that means something to me is about six inches off the floor!!! i want to plumb my rez to my drain in the floor. do you think the 1" will be big enough just for a rez dump? maybe 30gallons estimate..

.

so i have yet another question. i just need to get some elbows and tees for 2" i want to know if i should buy all four elbows or just two or can i even get away with none??

i know "A" is the way when i see four sites but can i get away with B and only use two elbows and less room. or could i just do C and not have the elbows because it's only two buckets..

sorry for the sloppy drawing..

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No on C as it could just skip the buckets and go res to pump. It has no real draw into the buckets.
I see no issue with B though.
You could even have the two lines coming from buckets to the pump be same size as pump return to res and not need elbows there if you use flexible lines.
 
I have no idea if this is any use for what you are trying to do. Just sharing a link to a series of videos I came across where Heisen shows how he built a RDWC system in 2019. If you haven't seen it and want to check it out, here's the link. Good luck. I'm looking forward to following your progress.
 
do you think the 1" will be big enough just for a rez dump? maybe 30gallons estimate..
Yeah All my lines are plumbed in with 3/4 pvc and it can dump 35 gallons in a hurry.

No on C as it could just skip the buckets and go res to pump. It has no real draw into the buckets.
C could work if the lines drawn are strictly returns and he goes the other way with his feeds. Either place the pump in the control res, or send the suction line there, then T off to feed each bucket with a couple waterfalls.

Sorry.. I just like waterfalls. They can be added easily and in my mind, it's hard to get TOO MUCH surface agitation. Plus, that would guarantee each site gets the same amount of water turnover. If one plant's roots outgrow the other's and block off the line a little, flow could be greater in one vs the other. I'm not a plumber though. Sparky here.
 
No on C as it could just skip the buckets and go res to pump. It has no real draw into the buckets.
I see no issue with B though.
You could even have the two lines coming from buckets to the pump be same size as pump return to res and not need elbows there if you use flexible lines.

yeah i figured C was gonna be a hard no!! i bought enough elbows to do A & B. i can return stuff if i don't use it all. if i have the space and can i will go for plan A . i'll use B if for some reason a stud or table leg gets in the way. i have a couple odd obstacles. i've now blown budget so i'm just gonna do everything as good as i can. even just ordered a DC pump w/controller big enough to expand in the hopes i fall head over heals with hydro and wanna go to four sites. YOLO, ya know. i know YOU know!! haha

i don't know about flex lines yet. not a deal breaker but i would prefer to hard pipe everything i can. `

I'd do RDWC

Flood and drain/ebb flow for higher plant count, is how i see it

thanks O!! that's how i read into the other systems as well, everything with a table seemed designed for many plants. everything under four led to (R)DWC.

I have no idea if this is any use for what you are trying to do. Just sharing a link to a series of videos I came across where Heisen shows how he built a RDWC system in 2019. If you haven't seen it and want to check it out, here's the link. Good luck. I'm looking forward to following your progress.

i don't know either man but i'm leaning!! i'll be sure to fininsh this thread and show the finished system and what and did and why. maybe some day it will help another person like me.. if that said person exists!! :LOL:

Yeah All my lines are plumbed in with 3/4 pvc and it can dump 35 gallons in a hurry.


C could work if the lines drawn are strictly returns and he goes the other way with his feeds. Either place the pump in the control res, or send the suction line there, then T off to feed each bucket with a couple waterfalls.

Sorry.. I just like waterfalls. They can be added easily and in my mind, it's hard to get TOO MUCH surface agitation. Plus, that would guarantee each site gets the same amount of water turnover. If one plant's roots outgrow the other's and block off the line a little, flow could be greater in one vs the other. I'm not a plumber though. Sparky here.

cool then my 1" will work for sure. i already have the lines/valve/seal, and it's right in line with my drain the way i want to set it in place and the 1" is just free for me atm. so i got that working for me.. alta air pump, check! good drain plan, check! good water, check!

now i just need to finalize this bucket/recirc plan and i'll be moving!!

so i just gotta ask one more time man and i'm sorry to not catching onto the concept right away and i just want the best i can and set myself up for success. because i want the waterfall action, and i gotta make sure i'm planning/plumbing this right i'm electrical too. i know enough plumbing to get myself in trouble!

so just to check, does the waterfall action happen in the rez only?

i ordered a DC pump with settings so i can slow it down for this trial and speed it up if i get two more sites. so i can also mount the pump outside like you guys have, before now i was planning of having my pump inside the rez.
 
YOLO, ya know. i know YOU know!! haha
Yeah you know me 😎
Go big or go home.

i know enough plumbing to get myself in trouble!
This is me, too. I tell people I'm scared of plumbing and they look at me crazy like, because I can work electricity, I shouldn't be afraid of water. We'll I'm afraid of fucking it up and costing myself a ton in repairs.

so just to check, does the waterfall action happen in the rez only?
My waterfalls are in the plant sites. I'm under the impression that this really helps with dissolved oxygen.
Screenshot_20240805_214905_Gallery.jpg
I don't have anything going on in my control res aside from the suction line and a small DC pump that circulates through a chiller. I even removed the bubblers this round to keep any bubbles from gathering in the tips of my probes.

The larger lines, in my system, are return lines only. There's nothing wrong with doing it how CurrentCulture sets their's up, though.

You have options.
 
Yeah you know me 😎
Go big or go home.


This is me, too. I tell people I'm scared of plumbing and they look at me crazy like, because I can work electricity, I shouldn't be afraid of water. We'll I'm afraid of fucking it up and costing myself a ton in repairs.


My waterfalls are in the plant sites. I'm under the impression that this really helps with dissolved oxygen.
View attachment 67976
I don't have anything going on in my control res aside from the suction line and a small DC pump that circulates through a chiller. I even removed the bubblers this round to keep any bubbles from gathering in the tips of my probes.

The larger lines, in my system, are return lines only. There's nothing wrong with doing it how CurrentCulture sets their's up, though.

You have options.

ahhh i got ya.. seems like fall ponics is more of a true recirculation within each plant site, does it have a greater risk of overflow than the current culture?

if i ran fall ponics i wouldn't need any elbows, just one tee and bump it all up to 3" , so i could still run my scenario C but instead pump the water in to the tops of the plant sites instead of the 3" returns... that would make things cheaper and easier for me to plumb.
 
Current Culture is still a true RDWC and I don't think there's a greater risk for overflow with fallonics. I just like it better. Current Culture is like top of the line, so they're doing something right. Smoke grows trees full of awesome buds, so it works too.

This is just one of those "hundred ways to fuck a cat" sort of situations. It'll boil down to what makes the most sense to you and which is easier to pull off with what you've got.
 
Current Culture is still a true RDWC and I don't think there's a greater risk for overflow with fallonics. I just like it better. Current Culture is like top of the line, so they're doing something right. Smoke grows trees full of awesome buds, so it works too.

This is just one of those "hundred ways to fuck a cat" sort of situations. It'll boil down to what makes the most sense to you and which is easier to pull off with what you've got.

alright i understand what your saying, i think if i plan this correctly i could always convert to both of those styles with an upgrade.

so i think i will put the two hydro sites side x side versus front to back. this way i can keep the two soil plants up front easier to water. and if i want to upgrade to four hydro sites i could do that with round or square buckets later.

i'll get the basics done well. meaning large rez, 3" recirc, and one thing that was bugging me was a table i had next to my grow cab that was limiting where the rez was, i was gonna put it under the table and run the plumbing under the legs... seemed like a pita so tonight i was actually able to move the table a couple feet and made room for the rez and a place to have room for plumbing and such..

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so this will be my new plan.. fall ponic style to save money on 3" elbows and tees. this way i just need straight pipe and seals.
and then pump to the top of the buckets, and add air lines.

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this way if i fall in luv with rdwc i can add two more sites whether they be round or square and already have the 3" and i will use flex line for the water so i could always move it to the recirc lines if i wanted to do CC style.
 
The last plant will not get even flow with that set up.
The pump only needs to draw off the last bucket so water will be drawn evenly through both.
 
Now you've also got an elevated surface next to your control res in case you ever go with a top-off resevoir.

great minds think alike!! there was a lot of boxes on that table and i had to take most of em off to move it so i left that one corner empty just for the thought of an auto top off. the front corner is reserved for soil stuff. ya know man i'm gonna have the mullet of grows, soil in the front - hydro in the rear!!! :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

not to put the cart before the horse but i heard you guys talking about the water level should be an inch from the bottom of the net cup, so how far down from the netcup should the water level get before i add more?

The last plant will not get even flow with that set up.
The pump only needs to draw off the last bucket so water will be drawn evenly through both.

i thought so too man, but thats how PA hydro does a two site system..

IMG_4239__00252.1651068991.JPG
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so i'm just gonna copy this design except for the square buckets (unless two 13 gallon tubs fall in my lap!)
 
not to put the cart before the horse but i heard you guys talking about the water level should be an inch from the bottom of the net cup, so how far down from the netcup should the water level get before i add more?
So before the roots hit the water, you'll want the water level touching the bottom of the netpot unless you've got some really nice airstones to keep the hydroton wet. Then, after roots are in the water an inch or more, drop the level to an inch or so below the pot.

I can't really say since I never ran DWC. Might check some of @SweetLeafGrow 's threads. If I was to make an uneducated guess, i would say not to let the water level get more than 3 or 4 inches below the netpot.

(unless two 13 gallon tubs fall in my lap!)
Totes worked really well for my first two runs, although it was a little sketchy using one for the top-off resevoir. 30 gallons really bowed the sides so I reinforced it with a ratchet strap. Maybe mine wasn't heavy-duty enough. The 50gal brute trash can I'm using now has very little bow even filled to the brim, which is closer to 60 gallons.

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For a second there I was like "Damn he built it already!?" Then I noticed it was in a tent.. I need some sleep 😴

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Edit: I'm not a fan of the humped return line but I understand why some people do it. You shouldn't run into that problem with your closet, though. It's a tent issue.
 
So before the roots hit the water, you'll want the water level touching the bottom of the netpot unless you've got some really nice airstones to keep the hydroton wet. Then, after roots are in the water an inch or more, drop the level to an inch or so below the pot.

got it, i'll follow those rules.

I can't really say since I never ran DWC. Might check some of @SweetLeafGrow 's threads. If I was to make an uneducated guess, i would say not to let the water level get more than 3 or 4 inches below the netpot.

understood, i'm hoping with my oversized rez it should make that window of topping a little bigger. i'll find out as i go.

Totes worked really well for my first two runs, although it was a little sketchy using one for the top-off resevoir. 30 gallons really bowed the sides so I reinforced it with a ratchet strap. Maybe mine wasn't heavy-duty enough. The 50gal brute trash can I'm using now has very little bow even filled to the brim, which is closer to 60 gallons.

they do flex scary sometimes.. i have a pretty big one i use to cook ribs sous vide style and the tote gets up to 180*, they get a little soft at that temp!! :LOL: i made a wooden cradle from 2x4's that kept it's shape and that worked pretty good so i might go that same route if i have any issues with this rez.

so do you actually keep that much liquid in you top off rez? 50 gallons?!?! how many gallons in your whole system running at normal grow level?

For a second there I was like "Damn he built it already!?" Then I noticed it was in a tent.. I need some sleep 😴

sometimes i'm good but never that good!!! :LOL:

Edit: I'm not a fan of the humped return line but I understand why some people do it. You shouldn't run into that problem with your closet, though. It's a tent issue.

me either, i didn't see a photo with the straight, but yeah with my situation it will be much easier to just drill a hole and run a straight pipe, especially after hearing about Nesta's issues with that caterpillar pipe.

i think i have everything i need on the way. well amazon may have lost the nutes, i might have to reorder those, no biggie! but i hope to have this up and running by this weekend.
 
so do you actually keep that much liquid in you top off rez? 50 gallons?!?! how many gallons in your whole system running at normal grow level?
No but I keep my RO resevoir filled to the brim. Well as full as I possibly can while still using a float valve.

I initially filled the top-off 5 gallons at a time and marked the pipe that connects to the suction side of my pump. I got to 55 gallons and still had a couple inches to go. Marking the pipe helped me determine the actual capacity of the lower resevoirs and also gives me accurate numbers for mixing my solutions. I zip-tie the float valve in the control res and mix my nutes in the top-off. Then I use the pump for a quick and easy transfer.

Last couple runs, I'd leave 20ish gallons in the top-off and when that was emptied it was time for a res change. That's a pretty decent rule of thumb for RDWC. Once you've added back the total volume of your system, time for a res change.

i think i have everything i need on the way. well amazon may have lost the nutes, i might have to reorder those, no biggie! but i hope to have this up and running by this weekend.
Fuggin' Amazon, man. It's like they don't even care about us.

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I'm watching this one closely. I had so much fun setting up my systems that I'm gonna mooch some excitement off of your project.

I think I'm fully kitted now and won't be doing much upgrading for awhile. We'll either buy a new house in the country soonish or have another kid. Whenever that decision is made, I'm moving out of the tent and building a veg room and flower room. I'll use the closet I'm in now as a water room and will finally be able to get that 55gal RO res out of my bathroom. Until then I'm stuck with a cramped bathroom and a cramped grow room 🤣
 
Wow man can't wait to see what you do with wet feet!!

Looks like you're well on your way and here's a few things from this old school hydronaught I don't think have been mentioned....

On this system...

thanks man, been reading about stuff all night and kinda already talked myself into a RDWC like this instead of just a two bucket dwc..

20220318_140112__26112.1671464999.jpg

You can put the R in this DWC by installing an air lift pump inside the controller on one of the inlets. It won't be as maniacal of a GPH as what UC does but with 1" tubing all around then going into a 1/2" air lift you'll get about 2-3GPH using just air power and it will circulate the system very well. You could probably get several complete rotations per day.

To increase controller capacity is very ez following the GH waterfarm controller set up.
Your control bucket would have a float valve inside set to your water height. On top of your controller would be another bucket or tote with a bottom drain tube that connects to the float valve in the controller.
Something like this


Screenshot 2024-08-07 132341.png

So say your controller rez is 5 gallons, if you stack a 7 gallon bucket on top you pretty much get a 12 gallon rez.

When using mag drive pumps you'll probably need a calmag supplement that has iron included in it. The bigger the pump the more this can be an issue but mag drive pumps can pull the iron from your nutes and it will stick to the impeller with the magnets inside. Good idea to check and clean that regularly.

If you need a drain pump IDK if you remember my Oxygen Pot System but it was flood and drain and needed a complete drain on the cycles. Most pumps leave about an inch of water in the system but this one picks up in water as shallow as 1/16th of an inch.


If you ever want to go all in on UC I know of a UC graveyard at the local shop. Out back in the used stuff there were several systems and all sorts of parts for them there.

Good luck with this man and I know you'll have fun doing it! I've been thinking of restarting my hydro berry tower again but out back with a small green house for Winter protection. I miss having that fun little project going and still have lots of nutes. Just need some plants really is all to get it back up and running
 
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No but I keep my RO resevoir filled to the brim. Well as full as I possibly can while still using a float valve.

I initially filled the top-off 5 gallons at a time and marked the pipe that connects to the suction side of my pump. I got to 55 gallons and still had a couple inches to go. Marking the pipe helped me determine the actual capacity of the lower resevoirs and also gives me accurate numbers for mixing my solutions. I zip-tie the float valve in the control res and mix my nutes in the top-off. Then I use the pump for a quick and easy transfer.

thats still quite a bit of water. i don't like wasting water so i'm gonna haver to find something to do with it, or tey to not have so many changeouts like Smoke does it. but for this very first time i'm just gonna go by the book sort of speak, once i get comfortable i will experiment and see what works for me. but for now i want to just use the noob advice you have all been giving me and not try to get to fancy just yet.

i wasn't going to put a level tube on my rez but maybe i will now. had thoughts of maybe a digital one like an old atv fuel gauge set up, i have a couple new ones on the shelf i could put in there.. maybe hook it up to a esp32 and have it send alerts to my cell phone!! see.. no fancy shit yet!!! my mind goes faster than my plants do and it will get me in trouble!!! like you said KISS!!!

Last couple runs, I'd leave 20ish gallons in the top-off and when that was emptied it was time for a res change. That's a pretty decent rule of thumb for RDWC. Once you've added back the total volume of your system, time for a res change.

good info there, thanks!!! i'm excited to see the actual volume number and how close i get to my estimate!!

Fuggin' Amazon, man. It's like they don't even care about us.

they just lost it or somebody took it.. it got to the local hub that brings it to me and that was the last they saw it... been since saturday, i think it's gone. i really hope it is lost because i was going to return more than half of that order anyway!! :ROFLMAO:

I'm watching this one closely. I had so much fun setting up my systems that I'm gonna mooch some excitement off of your project.

I think I'm fully kitted now and won't be doing much upgrading for awhile. We'll either buy a new house in the country soonish or have another kid. Whenever that decision is made, I'm moving out of the tent and building a veg room and flower room. I'll use the closet I'm in now as a water room and will finally be able to get that 55gal RO res out of my bathroom. Until then I'm stuck with a cramped bathroom and a cramped grow room

something else i need help and opinions on man... my plant sites are in a wooded cabinet, not a tent. i have a sub floor in my cabinet a couple inches taller than my floor. i really wanted to put my rez directly on the floor to take advantage of geothermal cooling. but if i put my rez on the floor it will be 2" or more lower in elevation causing the rez height to be pretty high to reach the bottoms of the netcups.

do you think i should just suck it up and use more water and leave as is? (and take rez flex out of the equation, i solved that) or should i raise my rez up and keep it all level? any ideas on something to raise it up with that will transfer heat the best? don't have glass,, maybe cement pad? wood would be the easiest.. maybe i'm overthinking the heat transfer and should just lift it with wood!! what do you think?

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Wow man can't wait to see what you do with wet feet!!

Looks like you're well on your way and here's a few things from this old school hydronaught I don't think have been mentioned....

On this system...

thanks man, this has been pretty exciting for me so far, i was kinda nervous but once i started diving in and got all kinds of reassurance from everybody it got really fun. im not even thinking of the growing yet. building and laying this out is way more fun to me than growing is. not smoking but more fun than growing!! :LOL:

i'm not going with that system anymore... i've blown budget so i'm just building a PA hydro fallponics two site setup but with 5 gal buckets for plant sites instead of 13gal pails.. if i had pails for a decent price i'd use them for sure but buckets is what i have for my first try.

You can put the R in this DWC by installing an air lift pump inside the controller on one of the inlets. It won't be as maniacal of a GPH as what UC does but with 1" tubing all around then going into a 1/2" air lift you'll get about 2-3GPH using just air power and it will circulate the system very well. You could probably get several complete rotations per day.

To increase controller capacity is very ez following the GH waterfarm controller set up.
Your control bucket would have a float valve inside set to your water height. On top of your controller would be another bucket or tote with a bottom drain tube that connects to the float valve in the controller.
Something like this

i plan to use a large tote for the rez, it holds 37 gallons max but i'm hoping i can keep the water level down a few inches inside and not fill it all the way up.

i even printed out some hinges and knob to make a lid like the fancy store bought ones...:LOL:

004.JPG

i also built a wooden cradle that matches the shape of the tote to keep it from bowing at all, kinda like i did for my SV rib cooker!!
down side is every hole you want in the rez i also have to drill an even bigger hole through some hard ass walnut( ithink it's walnut anyhow)... up side is no flex..

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i might put float valves in it and elevate a larger rez on a table above it for auto top offs but for now i'd like to see what's like without autpmation and learn how to grow with it first.

if you remember man, when we met i was kind of a noob in soil and quickly adapted to SIP from watching Mountain High ( miss that guy!) i put SIP in veg and flower and never really learned how to grow properly because of the automation it provides. now i'm just finally leaning how to grow properly in soil and just now leaning some of the basics i kinda skipped over leaning in the past. i don't want to do that with hydro, i'd like to learn how to top off, adjusting nutes, changeouts, all that stuff without the automation factor.

not sure if that makes sense but i'd like to get over any first time learning lessons in this test and not after i like it and keep doing it later down the road.

When using mag drive pumps you'll probably need a calmag supplement that has iron included in it. The bigger the pump the more this can be an issue but mag drive pumps can pull the iron from your nutes and it will stick to the impeller with the magnets inside. Good idea to check and clean that regularly.

i'm gonna use one of these fancy pumps..

and it will be outside the rez itself so no heat from the pump in the water.. downside, i could leak.


If you need a drain pump IDK if you remember my Oxygen Pot System but it was flood and drain and needed a complete drain on the cycles. Most pumps leave about an inch of water in the system but this one picks up in water as shallow as 1/16th of an inch.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NC9LF4F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i might need something man, i may have a couple here that u se for the pond stuff but i know it doen't get 1/16... maybe 1/4 with what ii have.

my drain will get me to less than an inch. but i'm not sure how much it's important to get every drop of solution out between change outs, i'm sure if there's something wrong it's very important but just because it's time maybe then not so important. that's the stuff i can't wait to learn!!!

If you ever want to go all in on UC I know of a UC graveyard at the local shop. Out back in the used stuff there were several systems and all sorts of parts for them there.

great to know, i'm always down to save a few bucks on used stuff!!

Im not so sure about that.
Someone with a DO meter shoud do a test.

i know with my pond there is a point where i just can't get anymore o2 in the water i'm sure it's the exact same way in hydro and man with those big air stones in each plant site might already be fully saturated with o2.

it would be a good test!
 
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i know with my pond there is a point where i just can't get anymore o2 in the water i'm sure it's the exact same way in hydro and man with those big air stones in each plant site might already be fully saturated with o2.

it would be a good test!
to a certain point, temperature of the water helps hold more dissolved o2, less energy for molecules to spread out.

after that, physically adding Oxygen from a o2 concentrator or oxygen tanks is required, to keep elevated o2 levels, afaik.
 
do you think i should just suck it up and use more water and leave as is?
More water will help it keep a more stable pH.

my drain will get me to less than an inch. but i'm not sure how much it's important to get every drop of solution out between change outs, i'm sure if there's something wrong it's very important but just because it's time maybe then not so important. that's the stuff i can't wait to learn!!!
You actually want to keep a little solution while doing changes unless, like you said, there's an issue. Your microbes will take a couple weeks to fully establish themselves so you don't want to start that over with every res change. When I want ALL the water out, I shopvac it. I only do that every so often to guarantee that the solution I mix is the solution they get.
 
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