Grump's Power Plant Grow.

Two weeks since her first appearance. Roots are doing really well. I have the light set at 12% now and will continue to bump it up 1% per day until she throws a fit.View attachment 23779View attachment 23780
just a little behind ya with my seedling in water i started.

are you using airstones?

when i set up a DWC-hydro again i may just run a water pump in the water to stir, skip the airstones, run a little tank of O2 to it maybe

went ahead and threw away the last 2 airstones, cant seem to clean em out and not liking how they keep rising the ph so quickly in a small container
 
just a little behind ya with my seedling in water i started.

are you using airstones?

when i set up a DWC-hydro again i may just run a water pump in the water to stir, skip the airstones, run a little tank of O2 to it maybe

went ahead and threw away the last 2 airstones, cant seem to clean em out and not liking how they keep rising the ph so quickly in a small container
I've got two airstones in the plant res and top-off res. A single one in the control res.

I started the grow with a danner pump and a venturi fitting in the top-off res but it got too hot and brought the res temp up to 76 before I pulled it out and went with airstones again.

When I get some free time to tinker I'll see about putting the pump back to work externally.
 
I've got two airstones in the plant res and top-off res. A single one in the control res.

I started the grow with a danner pump and a venturi fitting in the top-off res but it got too hot and brought the res temp up to 76 before I pulled it out and went with airstones again.

When I get some free time to tinker I'll see about putting the pump back to work externally.
nice i meant to include setting up a venturi as well
 
just a little behind ya with my seedling in water i started.

are you using airstones?

when i set up a DWC-hydro again i may just run a water pump in the water to stir, skip the airstones, run a little tank of O2 to it maybe

went ahead and threw away the last 2 airstones, cant seem to clean em out and not liking how they keep rising the ph so quickly in a small container
Not to butt in butt, I saw a show about those air stones and removing them seem to be the ticket to help this farmer. so good move if you ask me. Carry on SSgrower I don't get to help much but I have a good photographic memory for some things.
 
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Ph/ppms held steady for two days. Got home from work yesterday and I saw the ppm of the top-off resevoir bouncing back and forth from 260-270. At what point is a rise in ppm a cause for concern in that res? I assumed 10 ppm on the 500 scale is a miniscule bounce.

I added a bit of RO to keep it steady at 260 but at what point should I think about mixing a new batch for the top-off. A rise of 20-30+?

@Moe.Red No concern on this end yet, just curiosity. I'm trying out a different method this round in keeping the upper and lower resevoirs identical. I know that's not your method but you surely have some insight.

@SweetLeafGrow did you ever see a rise in ppm in your top-off res?
 
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Ph/ppms held steady for two days. Got home from work yesterday and I saw the ppm of the top-off resevoir bouncing back and forth from 260-270. At what point is a rise in ppm a cause for concern in that res? I assumed 10 ppm on the 500 scale is a miniscule bounce.

I added a bit of RO to keep it steady at 260 but at what point should I think about mixing a new batch for the top-off. A rise of 20-30+?

@Moe.Red No concern on this end yet, just curiosity. I'm trying out a different method this round in keeping the upper and lower resevoirs identical. I know that's not your method but you surely have some insight.

@SweetLeafGrow did you ever see a rise in ppm in your top-off res?
You are likely not measuring reality. Temp for example will make the reading change. When you are talking about that small of a change, you are outside the +/- tolerance for the probe.

OR

you have evaporation.
 
You are likely not measuring reality. Temp for example will make the reading change. When you are talking about that small of a change, you are outside the +/- tolerance for the probe.

OR

you have evaporation.
Cool. Thanks for chiming in. I didn't consider evaporation. Makes sense.

I remember last round you'd mentioned the tolerances of the probes. That's why I wasn't concerned this time.
 
Here's the little fart on day 20. Tent temps stay 77-79 and I bumped the humidity down 4 days ago from 64-66% to 59-61%. She's taken in enough water now to see a drop in the top-off res and she's been feed 5.8-9pH water at 260ppm.
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Here's the little fart on day 20. Tent temps stay 77-79 and I bumped the humidity down 4 days ago from 64-66% to 59-61%. She's taken in enough water now to see a drop in the top-off res and she's been feed 5.8-9pH water at 260ppm.
View attachment 24518View attachment 24519
Light maybe a just a bit high or they may enjoy a slightly higher ppm. Im leaning towards the first more so. But looking healthy none the less. Good stuff brother
 
Light maybe a just a bit high or they may enjoy a slightly higher ppm. Im leaning towards the first more so. But looking healthy none the less. Good stuff brother
I think it's right around a foot up at 16% now. I've been bumping it up 1% every day.
 
Here's the little fart on day 20. Tent temps stay 77-79 and I bumped the humidity down 4 days ago from 64-66% to 59-61%. She's taken in enough water now to see a drop in the top-off res and she's been feed 5.8-9pH water at 260ppm.
View attachment 24518View attachment 24519
Can you do 5.5 pH and 300ppm

You can keep 65rh

Still young too
I keep RH about 10less than F
 
Can you do 5.5 pH and 300ppm
It drifted up from 5.8/260 a week ago to 6.0/270 last night. Top-off res has been spot on with the lower resevoirs so I'm gonna go off of this chart and lower the EC a bit and follow Aqua's advice on the light. When I get the chance, I'll suck out about a gallon and replace it with RO and I'll drop the light back down a couple percent.
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Rising pH/EC leads to lowering the EC by .2
 
It drifted up from 5.8/260 a week ago to 6.0/270 last night. Top-off res has been spot on with the lower resevoirs so I'm gonna go off of this chart and lower the EC a bit and follow Aqua's advice on the light. When I get the chance, I'll suck out about a gallon and replace it with RO and I'll drop the light back down a couple percent.
View attachment 24559
Rising pH/EC leads to lowering the EC by .2
What nutrients are you using? I kinda feel like 300-400ppm and a bit lower light will benefit you. You want nitrogen to be around 80-100ppm about now
 
What nutrients are you using? I kinda feel like 300-400ppm and a bit lower light will benefit you. You want nitrogen to be around 80-100ppm about now
I am curious about some of this. I saw your post yesterday @Aqua Man and I did not respond because well I was not 100 percent sure what was going on. Now I see you have further info all good. Yesterday I took a close look at the plants and as I examined the leaves I saw a need for increased feeding because if you look really close you can see deeper green at the center of the leaves and near the stem. I am still on the fence about increased light. My best experience tells me to look at the plant an hour or so before lights out to see what position the leaves are in. Are they praying, flat or exhausted.
I am just curios what triggered the added comments for you?
 
I am curious about some of this. I saw your post yesterday @Aqua Man and I did not respond because well I was not 100 percent sure what was going on. Now I see you have further info all good. Yesterday I took a close look at the plants and as I examined the leaves I saw a need for increased feeding because if you look really close you can see deeper green at the center of the leaves and near the stem. I am still on the fence about increased light. My best experience tells me to look at the plant an hour or so before lights out to see what position the leaves are in. Are they praying, flat or exhausted.
I am just curios what triggered the added comments for you?
So the leaf orientation is directly related to the transpiration rates. This increase flow of water increases the internal pressure of the plant. This results in the lifting and folding of the leaves that ppl refer to as praying. Transpiration is driven by light. This why plants droop at night or as you near photosaturation

You 100% bang on about the color and the reason why i feel they need more nitrogen. I feel they are just shy of enough to facilitate ideal amounts for the demand on photosynthesis by the light intensity.

This is why i feel a slight increase to nutrients and a decrease in light intensity will benefit him
 
VPD also plays a role in transpiration only during the light cycle. It regulates the flow of water through the plant in combination with light intensity. Thats why you can drop your humidity over night to prevent favourable conditions for spore germination.

Its all intertwined so there is always more than one solution but you change 1 variable and you need to account for how that impacts all of the other variables
 
So the leaf orientation is directly related to the transpiration rates. This increase flow of water increases the internal pressure of the plant. This results in the lifting and folding of the leaves that ppl refer to as praying. Transpiration is driven by light. This why plants droop at night or as you near photosaturation
I believe I understand the above information, but to sort of throw a wrench in the works you can have a plant be completely happy praying to the light at lights on and for several hours only to find it at the end of the lights on period slumped over and as I put it exhausted. I believe depending on the timing and degree of slump the light needs to be adjusted. What in your opinion causes this? I most often find myself with these sort of issues in veg and can be in the first week of flower. At some point I believe the plants ability to uptake nutrient and water from the root system increases and allows for additional DLI but only after what I believe to be the root system has matured to the point of being able to sustain the plants growth rate.
 
What ratio of the trio? Im not all that familiar with the level of nitrogen at varying does of GH but i think they could use a bit more nitrogen and a bit less light.

Its not that i see problems just room for a slight improvement
All things added are equal parts. Calmag/green/purple/pink.

The lable on the GH bottles suggest 1:1:1 at this stage and I've added the calmag at the same dose. I think Smoke follows this chart here for the ratios albeit custom doses.
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I believe I understand the above information, but to sort of throw a wrench in the works you can have a plant be completely happy praying to the light at lights on and for several hours only to find it at the end of the lights on period slumped over and as I put it exhausted. I believe depending on the timing and degree of slump the light needs to be adjusted. What in your opinion causes this? I most often find myself with these sort of issues in veg and can be in the first week of flower. At some point I believe the plants ability to uptake nutrient and water from the root system increases and allows for additional DLI but only after what I believe to be the root system has matured to the point of being able to sustain the plants growth rate.
100% thats what i was meaning when i talk about ohotosaturation.

As a plant is driven harder by increased photons it increases photosynthesis there is a maximum photosynthetic rate when you reach that you see acute stress as the plant shifts from photosynthesis towards photorespiration. Now not only do we need to watch the photosynthetic rates but also the photosaturation which is when the plant starts to become unable to clear the stores of energy produced and basically gets backed up and the plant will go into photorespiration. Both negatively effect photosynthetic efficiency
 
All things added are equal parts. Calmag/green/purple/pink.

The lable on the GH bottles suggest 1:1:1 at th and I've added the calmag at the same dose. I think Smoke follows this chart here for the ratios albeit custom doses.
View attachment 24575
Try doing 2ml of cal mag. Most calmag contains nitrate nitrogen in the form of calcium and magnesium nitrate. Remember you are under LED so you will have a higher demand for Ca, Mg and K.
 
100% thats what i was meaning when i talk about ohotosaturation.

As a plant is driven harder by increased photons it increases photosynthesis there is a maximum photosynthetic rate when you reach that you see acute stress as the plant shifts from photosynthesis towards photorespiration. Now not only do we need to watch the photosynthetic rates but also the photosaturation which is when the plant starts to become unable to clear the stores of energy produced and basically gets backed up and the plant will go into photorespiration. Both negatively effect photosynthetic efficiency
This is where DLI comes in because at a certain point plants shift towards photorespiration because they cannot keep up with the photosynthetic rates demanded by the intensity of the light. So you can either shorten the photoperiod a bit or lower the light intensity. Many variables go into this… especially co2 as it increases photosynthetic efficiency and thus increases the photosynthetic rates a plant can perform reducing photorespiration. Basically allows the plant to not only make more energy but for longer periods.
 
I agree with Aqua. Small changes. It will not hurt to back the light off to give you a bit more time to dial things in.

Adding Cal Mag is also a good idea for the reasons Aqua mentions.

N is a "luxury" molecule in that if it is present in the nute mix it WILL be taken up by the plant. That can be a problem later, but for right now N is in demand according to my eye.
 
Ill also take this opportunity to point out o2 in the rootzone also increases photosynthetic efficiency much like co2 in the atmosphere…. Anything we can do to increase the efficiency of the plants will increase health and growth rates because the plant can make and use energy more efficiently
 
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