AC Infinity controller 67, 69 and 69 Pro

The AC stuff is limited to 1100 watts. 15 amps at 120volts AC is 1800 watts.
Thanks, I didn’t do the math. I just knew the 67/69 controllers won’t operate a heater or ac so recommended the 75/79 since that’s what they are for. Inkbird would be the better choice here.
 
For the Controller 67 or 69 or 69 Pro this device is a controllable 15 amp outlet.https://acinfinity.com/hydroponics-growers/controllers/smart-uis-controllers/uis-control-plug-for-outlet-powered-equipment/View attachment 6245
I've got 3 of these with the splitter dongles to run 7 lights off one UIS port
I haven’t seen that on their site yet, admittedly I haven’t looked either.
 
Thanks, I didn’t do the math. I just knew the 67/69 controllers won’t operate a heater or ac so recommended the 75/79 since that’s what they are for. Inkbird would be the better choice here.
I did not go thru the whole inkbird site but what little I found limited their stuff to 1100 watts as well. Someone above suggested using the 67/69 controller. Whst is it not good for AC or Heating?
 
I did not go thru the whole inkbird site but what little I found limited their stuff to 1100 watts as well. Someone above suggested using the 67/69 controller. Whst is it not good for AC or Heating?
The 67/69 controllers don’t have an outlet. I didn’t know they now make an outlet that integrates to those controllers through their integrated uis system. That appears to be Capable of 15amps. That according to cool beans. I haven’t looked on their site personally to look at the specs for that outlet.
 
The 67/69 controllers don’t have an outlet. I didn’t know they now make an outlet that integrates to those controllers through their integrated uis system. That appears to be Capable of 15amps. That according to cool beans. I haven’t looked on their site personally to look at the specs for that outlet.
Currently running a heater off the controller 69, granted it's set on low heat which means it's only running at 700 watts, never tried it higher than that.
 
Currently running a heater off the controller 69, granted it's set on low heat which means it's only running at 700 watts, never tried it higher than that.
That's exactly what I do using the control plug. I also run fans and a humidifier.

The Controller 69 itself doesn't use much power. It just controls UIS devices that have their own power plugs. The controller draws the little power it needs from the devices via the UIS control cables that look like long USB cables.
 
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Yesterday, I ordered some AC Infinity stuff for my second tent. I have been using Inkbird controllers for that tent, but I decided I wanted multiple triggers for the exhaust fan, and the Inkbird controllers can't do that.

My intent was to buy a Controller 69 Pro, and I did. But I also bought a third control plug, an S4 inline fan with duct and an S6 oscillating fan. Except for the oscillating fan, this equipment will be added to my smaller tent (28"x28"x63").

I've been having a tough time keeping the temperature in range, so the RH has been running low, as well. I'm not sure why, but I think it might have to do with the volume and/or the shape of the tent. We'll see if these components work better.

PS: I searched for a discount code and found one for 10% off that worked.
 
One thing I want to add regarding the 69 series is after using it I wish I had gone with the Pro version. The regular model doesn't allow for any buffering. So when you set the temp at 70 it comes on at 70.0 & turns off at 69.9. There's no way to change this that I've been able to find. Whereas with the Pro you can supposedly set different cut in & cut out setpoints to force it to run a bit longer.

I haven't found it to cause huge issues with the heater or humidifier, there seems to be enough of a lag between the devices being switched on & the heat/humidity actually coming out that it doesn't seem to cause insanely short runs. I'd still like to be able to widen it out, but it's ok. However the exhaust fan, especially since I installed an inline booster fan set to run constant will come on & run for like a second. To the point at times the motor wouldn't even get up to full speed before it shuts back off. Which then doesn't drop the RH very far below setpoint so in just a few seconds & comes back on for a second again.

I was able to rig around it by creating my own plug in time delay relay so that the fan will only come on after a constant signal for a settable period of time. However I just wanted to point that out, because I wish I had realized that when I bought mine.
 
One thing I want to add regarding the 69 series is after using it I wish I had gone with the Pro version. The regular model doesn't allow for any buffering. So when you set the temp at 70 it comes on at 70.0 & turns off at 69.9. There's no way to change this that I've been able to find. Whereas with the Pro you can supposedly set different cut in & cut out setpoints to force it to run a bit longer.

I haven't found it to cause huge issues with the heater or humidifier, there seems to be enough of a lag between the devices being switched on & the heat/humidity actually coming out that it doesn't seem to cause insanely short runs. I'd still like to be able to widen it out, but it's ok. However the exhaust fan, especially since I installed an inline booster fan set to run constant will come on & run for like a second. To the point at times the motor wouldn't even get up to full speed before it shuts back off. Which then doesn't drop the RH very far below setpoint so in just a few seconds & comes back on for a second again.

I was able to rig around it by creating my own plug in time delay relay so that the fan will only come on after a constant signal for a settable period of time. However I just wanted to point that out, because I wish I had realized that when I bought mine.
On my controller 67 app, If I go to settings/port there is a transition setting for temperature and humidity for auto mode.
 
On my controller 67 app, If I go to settings/port there is a transition setting for temperature and humidity for auto mode.
I've seen that but never tried to use it. From my reading of the tooltip, how that works is that it will ramp up in levels as the temp/rh goes over setpoint. So it would start at 1 then at 1 degree over ramp up to 2 and so on. Problem is controlling the smart plug it's either on or off, all levels are treated as on. So changing the fan speed from 1 to 2 effectively does nothing that I can tell. Unless I'm understanding it wrong.
 
I've seen that but never tried to use it. From my reading of the tooltip, how that works is that it will ramp up in levels as the temp/rh goes over setpoint. So it would start at 1 then at 1 degree over ramp up to 2 and so on. Problem is controlling the smart plug it's either on or off, all levels are treated as on. So changing the fan speed from 1 to 2 effectively does nothing that I can tell. Unless I'm understanding it wrong.
Not sure with the UIS plugs.
 
Not sure with the UIS plugs.
For the control plug, only the buffer option is available. It has an on/off range plus and minus the set value that keeps the plug from powering on and off too often. For UIS devices, like an inline fan, there is also a transition option that ramps up the speed of the device. The transition option won't show when a control plug is attached to the port.
 
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One thing I want to add regarding the 69 series is after using it I wish I had gone with the Pro version. The regular model doesn't allow for any buffering. So when you set the temp at 70 it comes on at 70.0 & turns off at 69.9. There's no way to change this that I've been able to find. Whereas with the Pro you can supposedly set different cut in & cut out setpoints to force it to run a bit longer.

I haven't found it to cause huge issues with the heater or humidifier, there seems to be enough of a lag between the devices being switched on & the heat/humidity actually coming out that it doesn't seem to cause insanely short runs. I'd still like to be able to widen it out, but it's ok. However the exhaust fan, especially since I installed an inline booster fan set to run constant will come on & run for like a second. To the point at times the motor wouldn't even get up to full speed before it shuts back off. Which then doesn't drop the RH very far below setpoint so in just a few seconds & comes back on for a second again.

I was able to rig around it by creating my own plug in time delay relay so that the fan will only come on after a constant signal for a settable period of time. However I just wanted to point that out, because I wish I had realized that when I bought mine.
A couple of things that might be of help now or in the future.
#1. Take a look thru the programing of the controller and see if it has a deadband. That is typically the tern used for what you are trying to do.
#2. If you are setting your dehumidifier with a zero deadband you are going to smoke it pretty quick. They need a period of cool down after each time it turns on to allow for a cool down process.
 
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A couple of things that might be of help know or in the future.
#1. Take a look thru the programing of the controller and see if it has a deadband. That is typically the tern used for what you are trying to do.
#2. If you are setting your dehumidifier with a zero deadband you are going to smoke it pretty quick. They need a period of cool down after each time it turns on to allow for a cool down process.
Yeah I'm pretty sure it's not available in this controller. I found the description of the feature on AC infinity's website, they call it a buffer & it's only available on the pro version of the controller.

Fortunately it's running the exhaust to vent out humidity, but I don't imagine it's great for a fan either. However you're 100% right if that had been hooked to any kind of dehumidifier or AC unit it could easily have killed it.
 
Yeah I'm pretty sure it's not available in this controller. I found the description of the feature on AC infinity's website, they call it a buffer & it's only available on the pro version of the controller.

Fortunately it's running the exhaust to vent out humidity, but I don't imagine it's great for a fan either. However you're 100% right if that had been hooked to any kind of dehumidifier or AC unit it could easily have killed it.
Sorry man I am not familiar with their line of controls. Controller are helpful but they all have their issues. Some you have to buy add on modules to do other things. It just depends on the brand.
 
Sorry man I am not familiar with their line of controls. Controller are helpful but they all have their issues. Some you have to buy add on modules to do other things. It just depends on the brand.
No worries I managed to build my own module to work around it, I just wanted to make others aware, if you're planning on using the smart outlets the Pro version works a lot better.
 
No worries I managed to build my own module to work around it, I just wanted to make others aware, if you're planning on using the smart outlets the Pro version works a lot better.
I bought the pro version for the WiFi, and didn't think about other feature differences. That makes sense, though.

I had a problem with my tent heater switching on and off constantly. This conversation helped me tweak the settings. I set the buffer to degrees F.
 
I bought the pro version for the WiFi, and didn't think about other feature differences. That makes sense, though.

I had a problem with my tent heater switching on and off constantly. This conversation helped me tweak the settings. I set the buffer to degrees F.
What is this buffer called in the device settings?
 
What made the Controller 69 hard for me to learn was how options are contextualized. So, the views change depending on what port is selected, for example. I believe they chose this design because they had to make compromises for the small screen on a phone. I would like them to make a web browser app, too, but I doubt they will. Phones probably have a richer development environment. I have SensorPush sensors in my tents and my lung room because they have apps for both the phone and the browser. (They don't make controllers.) I have trouble using phone apps because I have trouble seeing the small print sizes.

Here's a pic of the SensorPush web browser display:

1686958064299.png
 
While I was configuring a new 69 Pro and installing the latest update, I noticed that the release notes said something about support for gradual sunrise and sunset. I don't recall exactly what it said, but that was the meaning I got from it. I'm looking but haven't found a better description. I don't have a compatible light, so I can't try it. I found an AC Infinity web page that shows compatibility with other brand lights. Apparently, they support two protocols for the RJ11/12 jacks. One is the PWM protocol and the other is the resistor protocol. I don't plan to buy a new light so I could try it, but it's tempting. I have been thinking that the light in my 2x2 tent is too powerful, though. Hmmm...

 
While I was configuring a new 69 Pro and installing the latest update, I noticed that the release notes said something about support for gradual sunrise and sunset. I don't recall exactly what it said, but that was the meaning I got from it. I'm looking but haven't found a better description. I don't have a compatible light, so I can't try it. I found an AC Infinity web page that shows compatibility with other brand lights. Apparently, they support two protocols for the RJ11/12 jacks. One is the PWM protocol and the other is the resistor protocol. I don't plan to buy a new light so I could try it, but it's tempting. I have been thinking that the light in my 2x2 tent is too powerful, though. Hmmm...

I believe that sunrise/sunset is supported with their ion board transition light line of lights.
 
I believe that sunrise/sunset is supported with their ion board transition light line of lights.
It is, but according to their web page, other manufacturer's lights are also supported. The ViparSpectra KS5000 is on the list. It supposedly has a Type-A protocol jack. I'm wondering if the XS1500 Pro might also work, even though it's not on the list, because I'm not sure the list is up to date. There are also a bunch of Spider Farmer lights that support either the Type-A or Type-B protocol. Apparently, these protocols are industry standard (or close to it).
 
It is, but according to their web page, other manufacturer's lights are also supported. The ViparSpectra KS5000 is on the list. It supposedly has a Type-A protocol jack. I'm wondering if the XS1500 Pro might also work, even though it's not on the list, because I'm not sure the list is up to date. There are also a bunch of Spider Farmer lights that support either the Type-A or Type-B protocol. Apparently, these protocols are industry standard (or close to it).
I'm in the middle of this 69 Pro install debacle.
From what I can gather, with the appropriate A or B adapter any ballast that has dimming capabilities can be cobbled together to work.
The surise/sunset, I believe, is simply a dimming sequence that is digitally controlled to "create that effect.
I've got 6 244 qb's that use Meanwell's with resister pot. I think they'll use the type A adapter.
Then I have 4 Sun System CMH digital ballast's that uses their own controller thru a 2 wire pin plug cord so I'm gonna try the type B adapters for those.
Hopefully I don't let the magic smoke out lol.
 
I received a reply from ViparSpectra support about whether their XS1500 Pro light is compatible with AC Infinity's Controller 69 or 69 Pro. It sounds like it is compatible with the Type-A dongle. There is a caveat, however. The light can only be dimmed to 5%. That means it cannot be completely turned off by the controllers. So, the light could be used, but it would need a separate timer to turn it on and off.
 
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