Grump's Lemony Shiznits Grow 🌱

I know some stuff about this maybe I can help.. When your RO is filling for two days is your well pump still cycling on and off at the controller? Another wards is your RO filling off of your bladder tank and that fils and empties normal? You mentioned getting a new controller, it just points inside like an antique car right? Did you adjust these at all? When I get home later I can post ya some pics.
Yeah the pump kicks on normally at 48 psi on the pressure tank and off at 68. Pressure switch is working fine. It's smoking the capacitor in the pump controller. Here's the controller...

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I checked the windings with my meter. R/Y - 58 ohms, Y/B - 72 ohms, R/B - 22 ohms. That's telling me there's a short in the motor winding. To my knowledge, they should all read about the same. (That's wrong - the lower two values should add up to the larger number, so I've recently read). Each leg has 1-3k ohms to ground, though. There should be nothing there.
 
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Yeah the pump kicks on normally at 48 psi on the pressure tank and off at 68. Pressure switch is working fine. It's smoking the capacitor in the pump controller. Here's the controller...

View attachment 79708

I checked the windings with my meter. R/Y - 58 ohms, Y/B - 72 ohms, R/B - 22 ohms. That's telling me there's a short in the motor winding. To my knowledge, they should all read about the same. (That's wrong - the lower two values should add up to the larger number, so I've recently read). Each leg has 1-3k ohms to ground, though. There should be nothing there.

something doesn't sound right man.. those pumps are pretty standard when it comes to colors. common is normally black. yellow is run, and red is start. run to C (y-B) should be the lowest one, it takes the least to power. the next one should be the start wire (R-B) this should just be a little higher maybe within 10-15 ohms, it takes a little more juice at start up. (hence the controller needing the capacitor) and run to start should show you a pretty high reading. i've never relied on the adding the two to equals the third, maybe with some but not all.

your run wire reading so high has me really concerned and would in fact cause a load Cap to stress!! not totally shorted that it won't work but probably just enough windings shorted to cause problems.

do you happen to know what name pump is in there? manuf and size? i know it's very tough when buying a home, not everybody passes that info along. almost all companies list what the exact measurements should be.
 
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do you happen to know what name pump is in there? manuf and size? i know it's very tough when buying a home, not everybody passes that info along. almost all companies list what the exact measurements should be.
No idea on the brand and I am assuming it's a half-horse by the controller nameplate. It shouldn't have any ohms to ground on any of those leads, though, so the motor is toast. I don't know how deep the well is either. I tried to pull it up and could barely budge it, so I called somebody. They're gonna try to get out here tomorrow.
 
No idea on the brand and I am assuming it's a half-horse by the controller nameplate. It shouldn't have any ohms to ground on any of those leads, though, so the motor is toast. I don't know how deep the well is either. I tried to pull it up and could barely budge it, so I called somebody. They're gonna try to get out here tomorrow.

that really sucks man, i've replaced mine three times in thirty years. first two were cheapos and then i got talked into buying a high quality all 304 stainless model and buying the better one was the best thing i did. i was in my late 30's when this one was last changed. i helped, but there is no way in hell i'd be able to do it myself.

i'm curious how deep yours is, mine is 165'
 
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