Grump's Power Plant Grow.

I think little pots with coco is best. Big plants bust right thru the netpots.

Anyhow, the snob says that you want the roots to be coming out the sides of the netpots well before now. Tap roots do this thing where they just keep growing straight with minimal side branching until they encounter some resistance. You are going to have problems in a hydro system based on totes because the bottom of the pot is a foot away. So you have to get the branching morphology set when they are babies to get the best roots in hydro. I find that coco stays plenty wet just from the splashing of the waterfall, and provides more back pressure on the baby roots.
break the tap root off, it starts branching out from the tip.

those silly neoprene collars in my little water bottle? i broke the tap root off to see what would happen, stopped trying to go to the bottom and started branching sideways.
Another option is rock wool.

Or manipulate towards root growth with hormones like Auxin.

Stuff to think about for next grow anyhow.
i started using kelp foliar for the auxins,gibbs, and cytokinins and also tweaked my EC mix for a (more PK to N ratio(logic being to focus on root development) in the hydro experiments.
 
break the tap root off, it starts branching out from the tip.

those silly neoprene collars in my little water bottle? i broke the tap root off to see what would happen, stopped trying to go to the bottom and started branching sideways.

i started using kelp foliar for the auxins,gibbs, and cytokinins and also tweaked my EC mix for a (more PK to N ratio(logic being to focus on root development) in the hydro experiments.
if i had just blue leds....

anyone hear about PeLEDs?
 
Last grow, this chart showed my VPD at 1.6 when I was in early flower which is the supposed danger zone. I hit a max of 1.75 in late flower. Charts... meh
which means it was slightly "over" what "they" consider a "healthy" transpiration (?)

what was ENV-parameters like?
 
if i had just blue leds....

anyone hear about PeLEDs?


 
Temp was 78 and humidity low 40s
meaning its very dry and hard for them to keep their stomata open and exchanging water vapor and co2/gasses

or for them to open their stomata and let in co2 and let out water?

few different ways it could be worded i suppose (?)

co2 molecule comes in, h2o molecule goes out, vpd regulates that.
 
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meaning its very dry and hard for them to keep their stomata open and exchanging water vapor and co2/gasses

or for them to open their stomata and let in co2 and let out water?

few different ways it could be worded i suppose (?)

co2 molecule comes in, h2o molecule goes out, vpd regulates that.
vpd control*

someone correct me lol

i can shut up
 
vpd control*

someone correct me lol

i can shut up
nah, you're mostly correct.

VPD influences how much the plant opens its stomata. This is in response to the pressure in the atmosphere, primarily due to air temp, leaf temp, and humidity. Barometric pressure also plays a role, but not so significantly inside.

Plants will open stomata across a broad range regardless of RH, and as Moe said, they'll still transpire even in not ideal VPD so long most other needs are met. The only time they really shut down is above 85F iirc. Then, it's just a simple response to avoid dumping too much moisture into the air. Same will happen below 30% RH, though I've never seen it personally.

Growing in NM, getting enough RH was always the problem. Most of my early years saw grows riding between 20% - 40% RH depending on time of year. Of course, back then I didn't know about VPD but it didn't matter. Everything else the plants needed was met so they did their thing. Did they do it as fast and effectively as they could? probably not. but it didn't kill em.

TL;DR: it takes extremes for plants to just close stomata and act like they can't even. As long as you're not in those extremes (eg, super hot + <30% RH, super cold + >80% RH), you're probably fine. Getting RH dialed to ~1.0 for most growth phases is a good target, getting fine grained is just optimization.
 
nah, you're mostly correct.

VPD influences how much the plant opens its stomata. This is in response to the pressure in the atmosphere, primarily due to air temp, leaf temp, and humidity. Barometric pressure also plays a role, but not so significantly inside.

Plants will open stomata across a broad range regardless of RH, and as Moe said, they'll still transpire even in not ideal VPD so long most other needs are met. The only time they really shut down is above 85F iirc. Then, it's just a simple response to avoid dumping too much moisture into the air. Same will happen below 30% RH, though I've never seen it personally.

Growing in NM, getting enough RH was always the problem. Most of my early years saw grows riding between 20% - 40% RH depending on time of year. Of course, back then I didn't know about VPD but it didn't matter. Everything else the plants needed was met so they did their thing. Did they do it as fast and effectively as they could? probably not. but it didn't kill em.

TL;DR: it takes extremes for plants to just close stomata and act like they can't even. As long as you're not in those extremes (eg, super hot + <30% RH, super cold + >80% RH), you're probably fine. Getting RH dialed to ~1.0 for most growth phases is a good target, getting fine grained is just optimization.
ok so whats the criteria for optimizing/"dialing" VPD then, growth rate/"pushing the plants per scenario as much as possible" being the Goal, temperature variable maxed out and then follow RH/LSTemp?,

like you can "dial" youre nutrient use/ec in by comparing input>output / run off and adjusting (?)

1697681653684.png
so if im running vpd at 75rh/85f/82~LSTemp = 0.73VPD, lets say during stretch/transition phase/week 1, plants look "great/fine/enough" to me, could they be "transpiring" better though?

and 85/75 seems to be pretty good under LEDs and healthy growth BUT and again, you dont know what you dont know.............min-max/optimization...

do i want a higher vpd/lower vpd?

fuckin charts....
 
ok so whats the criteria for optimizing/"dialing" VPD then, growth rate/"pushing the plants per scenario as much as possible" being the Goal, temperature variable maxed out and then follow RH/LSTemp?,

like you can "dial" youre nutrient use/ec in by comparing input>output / run off and adjusting (?)

View attachment 26322
so if im running vpd at 75rh/85f/82~LSTemp = 0.73VPD, lets say during stretch/transition phase/week 1, plants look "great/fine/enough" to me, could they be "transpiring" better though?

and 85/75 seems to be pretty good under LEDs and healthy growth BUT and again, you dont know what you dont know.............min-max/optimization...

do i want a higher vpd/lower vpd?

fuckin charts....
yeah, fuck the charts.

IMO the thing with VPD it's one of the last things you worry about until after everything else is dialed in. It's become a buzzword in growing at this point. Think of it like adding methanol injection to a naturally aspirated engine. Yes, you should be worried about air temp and RH, but getting VPD at the right spot isn't the end-all-be-all for a grow. It's just another collection of variables that, when dialed, can increase speed of growth and improve quality of the end product.
 
If she twist or droops anymore, I'd slightly decrease PPFD and you should be about perfect.

id also just remove any fucked/dead/dieing leafs as they'll just fall off and "can" "attract" pest
And won't recover anyways.

The ones with burnt tips I'd leave till like half the leaf is gone/burnt/crisp (?)


Hell yea, nice.

👊
 
If she twist or droops anymore, I'd slightly decrease PPFD and you should be about perfect.

Hell yea

👊
Word.

I plan to leave the light alone until I'm absolutely sure she's recovered. I wanna say she's happy now because the lower res dropped from 320ppm to 300 today, so she's eating. That's the first drop I've seen since she's been in the system. I've been letting the pH fall to 5.2 before adjusting up, thinking that it might help with the Nitrogen uptake. She isn't drinking much because the water level in the upper res has barely dropped. Might add a little CalMag to the bottom resevoirs in a day or so to bring it back up to 320, which is where the upper res sits.

I'll give her a few more days, maybe even let her sprout another set of leaves, before fiddling with the light. I've got nothing but time so I'm just gonna be patient. If I gotta run an extra month of veg, so be it.
 
So in his case it was light, nutrients and VPD related. VPD largely controls the uptake of nutrients

The light was to intense causing stress and it also drives demand for nutrients. The VPD being to low in combination of a nitrogen low nutrient solution at low concentrations meant the plant was not getting close to the nutrients it needed to support the demand put on the plant by the light intensity.

Very few hard rules in cannabis but ine is when you see stress of any sort reduce the light and correct the other issues letting the plant recover before slowly increasing the light again to get it where we are walking the line of maximizing growing without passing that threshold of stress
 
In terms of high and low VPD yes you can run outside the ideal ranges but you also need to compensate for that. A low VPD needs a higher concentration of nutrients and vice versa under the same light conditions.

While you may not physically SEE the impacts of doing this or severe physical problems. There is more than enough scientific evidence that the plants will not only be healthier but also grow faster under ideal conditions of VPD…. Especially under circumstances when increased co2 in the atmosphere or o2 in the rootzone are used. Thats because those benefits are increased on a % of the base growth rates.

Co2 for instance shows increased resistance to to heat and water stress. But that does not mean that the plant will grow as healthy or fast in those conditions as they would in ideal conditions
 
I don't understand why the cotyledons are still nice and green. They are usually the first to go on a young plant that is browning from the bottom up. :unsure:
Mostly it was a light problem imo. But the nutrients also needed adjusting. The upper leaves being affected most.

By that i mean the upper leaves at the time it occurred
 
In terms of high and low VPD yes you can run outside the ideal ranges but you also need to compensate for that. A low VPD needs a higher concentration of nutrients and vice versa under the same light conditions.

While you may not physically SEE the impacts of doing this or severe physical problems. There is more than enough scientific evidence that the plants will not only be healthier but also grow faster under ideal conditions of VPD…. Especially under circumstances when increased co2 in the atmosphere or o2 in the rootzone are used. Thats because those benefits are increased on a % of the base growth rates.

Co2 for instance shows increased resistance to to heat and water stress. But that does not mean that the plant will grow as healthy or fast in those conditions as they would in ideal conditions
Said a different way, for the plant to be the best version of itself, all parameters including VPD must be in the green zone.

It's OK if you can't maintain that, the plant won't fall over and die. But if you can, results will be better.
 
Said a different way, for the plant to be the best version of itself, all parameters including VPD must be in the green zone.

It's OK if you can't maintain that, the plant won't fall over and die. But if you can, results will be better.
100% brother…. In the real world most do not have the ability to adjust all parameters so instead we have to adjust in other areas to compensate for the ones we cant to make it the most ideal we can.

Thats why there is so much confusion as to what is the best parameters and we hear different views from different growers. Because no 2 grow rooms are identical and even the amount of air movement in a room can change ideal for several other parameters.
 
Mostly it was a light problem imo. But the nutrients also needed adjusting. The upper leaves being affected most.

By that i mean the upper leaves at the time it occurred
I'm with ya here. I went with SF's recommended height and it didn't work out. I'll more than likely keep the light where it sits now and let the plant grow into it. I'll start bumping up the intensity when I'm positive that we're out of the rough and back on the fairway.

You guys are great. My plant will recover.
 
Hey folks. The first seed from this round showed up this morning so I figured it's time to get a new journal going. This grow will be Power Plant by Dutch Passion, the original breeders of the strain. It's supposed to be a heavy yielder so, with my 3x3 SCROG screen, hopefully I'll wind up with a plentiful bounty after harvesting what will be my second grow ever. Let's kick this off.

Equipment:
SpiderFarmer 5x5 tent
SpiderFarmer SE5000 LED with controller
AC Infinity Controller 69 pro
6" AC Infinity Exhaust fan and Cabon Filter
6" AC Infinity inline fan for intake
2x AC Infinity UIS plugs for heater/humidifier.
14 gallon totes for plant and control resevoirs
30 gallon tote for top-off resevoir
2x BlueLab gaurdian monitors

Nutrients:
General Hydroponics Flora Trio and CalMag
Plant Success Orca Liquid Mycorrhizae
Mr Fulvic's Fulvic Acid

-------

Dropped a couple beans into some Gro Plugs Thursday evening and the first of the two made it's breakthrough sometime last night. I've got them in AC Infinity's Germination Kit with heatmat and Lights included. Once my current harvest is dried and out of the tent, I'll move in the better of two.
View attachment 21912View attachment 21913

Thanks for tuning in to my second grow EVER. Feel free to post your questions and comments. Despite my name, I'm not really all that grumpy.

✌️ & 💚 y'all
Old or new seeds?
Hey folks. The first seed from this round showed up this morning so I figured it's time to get a new journal going. This grow will be Power Plant by Dutch Passion, the original breeders of the strain. It's supposed to be a heavy yielder so, with my 3x3 SCROG screen, hopefully I'll wind up with a plentiful bounty after harvesting what will be my second grow ever. Let's kick this off.

Equipment:
SpiderFarmer 5x5 tent
SpiderFarmer SE5000 LED with controller
AC Infinity Controller 69 pro
6" AC Infinity Exhaust fan and Cabon Filter
6" AC Infinity inline fan for intake
2x AC Infinity UIS plugs for heater/humidifier.
14 gallon totes for plant and control resevoirs
30 gallon tote for top-off resevoir
2x BlueLab gaurdian monitors

Nutrients:
General Hydroponics Flora Trio and CalMag
Plant Success Orca Liquid Mycorrhizae
Mr Fulvic's Fulvic Acid

-------

Dropped a couple beans into some Gro Plugs Thursday evening and the first of the two made it's breakthrough sometime last night. I've got them in AC Infinity's Germination Kit with heatmat and Lights included. Once my current harvest is dried and out of the tent, I'll move in the better of two.
View attachment 21912View attachment 21913

Thanks for tuning in to my second grow EVER. Feel free to post your questions and comments. Despite my name, I'm not really all that grumpy.

✌️ & 💚 y'all
Old or new seed stock? I grew these a few years ago. Seeds were from 2010. The old stock is better in my opinion
 
Hows she looking now brother?
I peeked in this morning and the newest set looks pretty darn good. Might still be a little low on N but it's a lot better green than before.

Growth has resumed also. It's throwing up the sixth set of leaves now. Might be able to top it in a day or so.

Thanks for checking in. I've been really busy with the toddler and the new job lately.
 
I peeked in this morning and the newest set looks pretty darn good. Might still be a little low on N but it's a lot better green than before.

Growth has resumed also. It's throwing up the sixth set of leaves now. Might be able to top it in a day or so.

Thanks for checking in. I've been really busy with the toddler and the new job lately.
Good stuff brother
 
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