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GrumpAzz said:
View attachment 18474
Here you go @Moe.Red. I was running high ppms at the end of veg. Noticed some burn on my first buds and backed it off about 100ppms.
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I remember reading that and didn't think it was nutrient burn at the time and thought it was more than likely caused by a nutrient imbalance.
 
smoke said:
I remember reading that and didn't think it was nutrient burn at the time and thought it was more than likely caused by a nutrient imbalance.
Click to expand...
Well we're running it a little lower now, regardless. She's starting to really fatten up about halfway through flower now. This has been so much fun! Thanks for being here with me on this maiden voyage. Wouldn't be here without ya'll.
 
GrumpAzz said:
Moe's side by side is all the evidence I need. Who cares if it's not quite as tasty if you can harvest 3x the amount.
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The best I ever did in soil was a tad over 4 zips on one plant. My first hydro grow that Moe and Aqua helped me save, I yielded 11. Hit over a pound on my second hydro grow. Not going back to soil with the exception of possibly doing some KNF some day that has peaked my interest if I can ever get to a place where I grow for the fun of it and not because it's necessary.
 
OK Grump, I think I am a little caught up.

One thing that concerns me is you are mixing up RO and nutes in your top off res and you finished at 6.3 PH. There has to be something there I am missing. If you add liquid GH nutes to RO water, you will be at 5.8 unless there is some contaminate. Not a lot of buffering there, but the nutes are pre-set to 5.8 and RO water should have no impact on final PH.

If you can go thru your process of building that water change res, I might be able to help you find the problem.

I would personally back the EC down even more over the next couple of weeks. When you start to finish her off, you will likely have very purple leaves - and not necessarily in a good way. It is a build up of over-feeding. I'll stick with you the next few weeks here and help you get to the finish line.
 
I've been mixing the same way from the beginning besides these last two changes where I subbed out the Agsil for PH UP.

I start by zipping the float valve in the lower resevoir, then I'll empty what's left in the top-off. These last two changes, I added the UP. Hold up... I added the up and never the down to bring it to 5.8 before nutes... I realized this as I'm typing. Is that an issue? The last res lasted a couple weeks no problems.

Either way, after the UP, then I add the nutes in the order shown on my notes.

Overnight, it went from 6.3 to 5.7. I plan on dosing her with a little more UP before I leave for my tests, expecting a continued drift down.

She'll have at least one more change before finishing, unless you think I should swap these nutes out and start fresh.

@Moe.Red
 
GrumpAzz said:
I've been mixing the same way from the beginning besides these last two changes where I subbed out the Agsil for PH UP.

I start by zipping the float valve in the lower resevoir, then I'll empty what's left in the top-off. These last two changes, I added the UP. Hold up... I added the up and never the down to bring it to 5.8 before nutes... I realized this as I'm typing. Is that an issue? The last res lasted a couple weeks no problems.

Either way, after the UP, then I add the nutes in the order shown on my notes.

Overnight, it went from 6.3 to 5.7. I plan on dosing her with a little more UP before I leave for my tests, expecting a continued drift down.

She'll have at least one more change before finishing, unless you think I should swap these nutes out and start fresh.

@Moe.Red
Click to expand...
Ahh, yes I see it now.

When you say you are adding PH up that is actually Agsil. That explains the 6.3.

Yes, you definitely need to get PH back down to 5.8 BEFORE adding any nutes. If you put micro in at ph of 6.5+ the iron and copper will precipitate out and will become plant unavailable.

Here is what I would recommend

RO
Agsil
stir
PH down
Stir
Set to 5.8
Micro
Cal Mag
grow
bloom

I would be cautious of both epsom and cal mag at the same time. They are antagonistic, and the ratio that comes in the cal-mag bottle is the right one for cannabis. Personally I would ditch the epsom and only treat if there is some problem with the plant, and that can be done by foliar feed if necessary.
 
Moe.Red said:
Ahh, yes I see it now.

When you say you are adding PH up that is actually Agsil. That explains the 6.3.

Yes, you definitely need to get PH back down to 5.8 BEFORE adding any nutes. If you put micro in at ph of 6.5+ the iron and copper will precipitate out and will become plant unavailable.

Here is what I would recommend

RO
Agsil
stir
PH down
Stir
Set to 5.8
Micro
Cal Mag
grow
bloom

I would be cautious of both epsom and cal mag at the same time. They are antagonistic, and the ratio that comes in the cal-mag bottle is the right one for cannabis. Personally I would ditch the epsom and only treat if there is some problem with the plant, and that can be done by foliar feed if necessary.
Click to expand...
You think I should mix a fresh batch tonight?
 
GrumpAzz said:
You think I should mix a fresh batch tonight?
Click to expand...
If you don't mind a little wasted nutes and time, I would.

PH is a funny thing. You want the water to be right and buffered (agsil and PH down) before the nutes go in. They will then add to the buffer, rather than exhaust their buffering capacity trying to fight the high PH down into the right range.

But if you get it right, stress will go waaaaay down. I don't worry about leaving my RDWC untouched for a week. No late night PH adjustments for me bro. That shit is for the birds.
 
Moe.Red said:
If you don't mind a little wasted nutes and time, I would.
Click to expand...
Don't mind at all if it means getting it right.
Moe.Red said:
PH is a funny thing. You want the water to be right and buffered (agsil and PH down) before the nutes go in. They will then add to the buffer, rather than exhaust their buffering capacity trying to fight the high PH down into the right range.

But if you get it right, stress will go waaaaay down. I don't worry about leaving my RDWC untouched for a week. No late night PH adjustments for me bro. That shit is for the birds.
Click to expand...
I've been lucky enough so far to only have to adjust pH for a couple days after the change. This res was just like the previous aside from an upped dosage and that res lasted clear through 20 gallons from the top-off res. I'm not sure how we ended up at 5.0 yesterday.

I'll do the change tonight with a lower ppm. I just gotta remember to bring it to 5.8 before nutes. I did with the first couple changes but somehow it slipped my mind with the last two.

Should I aim for around 500? Right now, after a shot of UP, we're sitting at 650 6.0 at 71 degrees.
 
Also @Moe.Red, it's lights off for now until 6pm, so at least she'll be resting while we wait on the change.
 
Moe.Red said:
Ahh, yes I see it now.

When you say you are adding PH up that is actually Agsil. That explains the 6.3.

Yes, you definitely need to get PH back down to 5.8 BEFORE adding any nutes. If you put micro in at ph of 6.5+ the iron and copper will precipitate out and will become plant unavailable.

Here is what I would recommend

RO
Agsil
stir
PH down
Stir
Set to 5.8
Micro
Cal Mag
grow
bloom

I would be cautious of both epsom and cal mag at the same time. They are antagonistic, and the ratio that comes in the cal-mag bottle is the right one for cannabis. Personally I would ditch the epsom and only treat if there is some problem with the plant, and that can be done by foliar feed if necessary.
Click to expand...
I wouldn't foliar feed anything past week 2 of flower
 
Yes, 500 is a good target.

And yes, no foliar feed in flower is a good rule of thumb. But people do it. Especially on something like magnesium (also contains sulfur and oxygen) which is mobile, you can spray the lower foliage away from the buds and still get the epsom benefit.

But I don't do that generally, I feed it thru the roots. Foliar feeding to me is something you do to correct an imbalance fast. If you are feeding correctly, it is completely unnecessary.

It can also be used diagnostically. Think you have a mag imbalance? Foliar feed just a couple branches and watch what happens. That's kinda pro level stuff tho. You can also cause more issues doing this.
 
SweetLeafGrow said:
The best I ever did in soil was a tad over 4 zips on one plant. My first hydro grow that Moe and Aqua helped me save, I yielded 11. Hit over a pound on my second hydro grow. Not going back to soil with the exception of possibly doing some KNF some day that has peaked my interest if I can ever get to a place where I grow for the fun of it and not because it's necessary.
Click to expand...
I don't get it. I just dry yielded 17 oz. off of one plant in soil. The other 2 yielded 9 oz and 8 oz respectively. I did it in a 5 x 5. Not sure how big a tent you have but you know what you're doing. Why such low yield? Genetics? Small grow space?
 
Moe.Red said:
Yes, 500 is a good target.

And yes, no foliar feed in flower is a good rule of thumb. But people do it. Especially on something like magnesium (also contains sulfur and oxygen) which is mobile, you can spray the lower foliage away from the buds and still get the epsom benefit.

But I don't do that generally, I feed it thru the roots. Foliar feeding to me is something you do to correct an imbalance fast. If you are feeding correctly, it is completely unnecessary.

It can also be used diagnostically. Think you have a mag imbalance? Foliar feed just a couple branches and watch what happens. That's kinda pro level stuff tho. You can also cause more issues doing this.
Click to expand...
Good idea! Didn't think about that!
 
Moe.Red said:
If you don't mind a little wasted nutes and time, I would.

PH is a funny thing. You want the water to be right and buffered (agsil and PH down) before the nutes go in. They will then add to the buffer, rather than exhaust their buffering capacity trying to fight the high PH down into the right range.

But if you get it right, stress will go waaaaay down. I don't worry about leaving my RDWC untouched for a week. No late night PH adjustments for me bro. That shit is for the birds.
Click to expand...
does this apply to all of it?

making/mixing a gallon of solution / making/mixing res solution

pseudo-hydro
 
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Moe.Red said:
Yes, you definitely need to get PH back down to 5.8 BEFORE adding any nutes. If you put micro in at ph of 6.5+ the iron and copper will precipitate out and will
Click to expand...
this may explain my possible Iron deficiency....got a different brand of 5-12-26 mix...fucking my shit up now compared to my usual routine with jacks 5-12-26....

ok fuck.

i start with an empty gallon jug, i add epsom & 5-12-26, then i add SOME hot water and mix it up,then i add more water to 3/4 gallon or so, shake it again

then i add 2g 15-0-0, shake again, then i add poolshock/hypo acid 34% H2O2 and then i add 1ml pH Down. then i fill the gallon rest of the way with cool water.

empty jug
1g epsom >
3.5g 5-12-26 >
warm/hot water >shake
add some more water, at half of a gallon now, or 3/4 of a gallon
add 2g 15-0-0.
shake
then 1ml ph down (phosphoric acid)
3-5ml 34% h2o2
1-2ml pool shock concentrate ive mixed.
shake

done, is this a fucked methodology lmao?
 
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Rootsruler said:
I don't get it. I just dry yielded 17 oz. off of one plant in soil. The other 2 yielded 9 oz and 8 oz respectively. I did it in a 5 x 5. Not sure how big a tent you have but you know what you're doing. Why such low yield? Genetics? Small grow space?
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Probably a lot of factors got me those low yields. Number one, I was a total beginner when I was in soil. Also, in a 3x3 with 4 plants in there. My best grow in the 3x3 was about 12 ounces or averaged 3 each, one of those hit 4. Genetics also play a role I am sure.

One of the things I like best about hydro is the speed during veg. I've been able to shave that veg time about in half, which over time translates into bigger yields too. 3-4 weeks veg generally and it's off to the races. In soil, I had to veg at least two months and I don't blame that all on me being a beginner, it's just slower.

2lbs+ in a 5x5 is killer bro in any medium 👊 Hell yea!
 
GrumpAzz said:
Oh this was a light leak issue, I'm pretty sure. I don't know what the hell I was thinking but my flexduct intake has tons of pinholes in the foil.

This is from outside the tent...
View attachment 18311
The brown seemed to get more pronounced when I first fed her more than 700ppms.
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I wrap black plastic bags over some of my ducting then electric tape it on....I've some white duct that acts like a light tube if I don't tape it up....
 
Pipecarver said:
I wrap black plastic bags over some of my ducting then electric tape it on....I've some white duct that acts like a light tube if I don't tape it up....
Click to expand...
I've got it covered with a towel for now. Seems to have at least stopped it from popping new sacs. I'm sure there are some buried in that bushy mess and/or growing in the buds, but I'm cool with it. I get seeds from dispensary bud sometimes so it's not that big of a deal. I just hate it when my grinder chops 'em up. There's a reason I have tweezers in my dooby case though. And vials of random seeds 🤣.

I've learned a lot from this grow and that's all I really wanted out of it. Burnable buds and some valuable experience. Now that I've mostly quit smoking, our consumption will be cut WAY down as well so yield is even less of a concern than before. I imagine after harvest and trimming, I'll be looking for ways to cut down on the larf but larf still smokes and my lady just started smoking 3 years ago, so she ain't the least bit picky.
 
So I was looking into humidity levels because my underbrush is pretty thick and some of my buds are awfully close to each other. In my grow bible, I only found it saying 40-80%. That's not very helpful 😒

So I started cruising the google and on ILGM it talked about tapering it down as you get further into flower. I had been running 79°/55% while the lights are on and dropping it to around 73°/51% lights off. After finding that article on ILGM, I decided to keep a constant humidity level and dropped it to 50-51%. Here's the chart I'm referencing.Screenshot_20230827_152640_Chrome.jpg
Should I also be planning to drop the temps here in the coming weeks? I'm about halfway through week 6 since flipping to 12/12.

Edit: I have a 1-3° leaf temp difference leaf temps and bud temps are roughly 76-78°

I also plan to defoliate sometime in the next week or so.
 

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